A week ago, we were talking about rose wines and drinking for summer. Let’s continue the discussion another week. More St. Louis restaurants and wine stores are adding roses – good roses – to their selections, and the reaction seems to be good. More people are trying the off-color wine, and they’re liking it, which is good for all concerned.
Good waiters and good store sales people have developed a new technique to move roses, traditionally slow sellers in the St. Louis market. As we noted last week, rose can be made from any red grape, though the French use Grenache most of the time, because it’s a fairly light grape. Petit Sirah and Syrah also work well, but so can most grapes. The color, and some of the flavor, comes from the grape skins, so the winemaker removes the skins from the tank after a very short time. The longer the exposure of juice to skins, the redder the wine.
And the sales technique?
"Well," said a veteran waiter, "instead of asking the diners if they want a rose, I just come out and suggest it, pointing out that the wine is dry, not sweet, and that it is served chilled, a popular point during a St. Louis summer."
We dined well at Terrene on a recent warm evening, and were thinking rose as we settled in and checked the wine list, happily finding three California offerings from different producers and different grapes – Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.
As a Zinfandel fan, I went first in that direction for a Carol Shelton offering ($28). We found it satisfactory, but not as good as we had hoped. The Zin grape created a wine too heavy for the desired result, though it might have been the winemaker’s decision. Later in the meal, we sampled an Etude ($34), made with Pinot Noir grapes, and it was much better, with the crisp, dry lightness that provides what I like about a rose. There was good fruit flavor in both, but our favorite was the Etude.
And speaking of roses, Randall Grahm, the master of good wine and bad puns at his Bonny Doon Vineyard, has two new ones – Big House Pink is a little on the sweet side, but his Vin Gris de Cigare is an excellent, crisp wine in the Provencal style. A variety of grapes goes are nicely blended and the wines are bright, lovely to look at and, as the old song goes, delightful to know. Both around $15.
Other tastes of the week, in unmeaningful order (at approximate store prices, not the restaurant prices noted above):
Robert Mondavi 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon ($40), Oakville District: A splendid wine, if any is still on shelves. Rich, deep, well-balanced and with the fine, dark, complex flavors a good cab will show after this sort of age. A winner.
Robert Mondavi 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon ($25), Napa Valley: Two years and a different terroir make a difference; this is good drinking, but lacks the finese of the more expensive wine.
Duckhorn 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon ($60), Napa Valley: A splendid offering from a traditional maker of fine wine, with rich, berry aroma, hints of chocolate in the back taste, a mouth-filling wine that takes a fine steak and makes it a little better.
Louis M. Martini 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon ($17), Sonoma Valley: The late Mr. Martini made my first wine-writing trip to Napa a marvelous education, and his wines have had a soft spot on my palate ever since. This one reeks of fine fruit, with excellent balance and a long finish.
Lindemans 2004 Cabernet/Merlot blend ($8), Australia.: This is a spectacular bargain from an Australian winery with a good reputation. The mix is 60 percent Cab, 40 percent Merlot and the wine has superb balance and wonderful flavor. Outstanding at this price.
Hahn 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon ($14), Central Coast: A good, mid-priced, fruity California entry, but still a little young and rather hard. About six months of rest in a closet or other place with a rather constant temperature and no direct sunlight shoould improve it a lot.
Oakville Ranch 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon ($50), Napa Valley: Also a little hard, but will be outstanding in a year or so. A big body, but some coarse edges right now; it will get smoother with time.
Dry Creek 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon ($25), Sonoma Valley: Very tasty, with spicy notes in the finish and an overtone of cherries. Nicely crafted, with a long, smooth finish.
Franciscan 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon ($28), Napa Valley Oakville District: Deep and almost moody in flavor and aroma, but a bold, rich wine with a superior mouth feel.
Tintara 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon ($18), Australia: Another worthy bargain from Australia, this cab is rich and tasty, with harmonious balance. Good for steak, or ribs, or even for a backyard-grilled hamburger.
-Joe