The Chardonel grape, a cross between the Chardonnay and the Seyval Blanc, makes some interesting, tasty wines. Like Vignoles, it can be vinified pretty much across the spectrum from dry to sweet. The wine has hints of both the familiar Chardonnay flavor and the crisper, more mineral aspect of the Seyval; it can be a pleasant accompaniment to grilled seafood.
Most Missouri wineries grow and vinify the grape, and it’s also popular in the vineyards of Ontario, which has a busy wine-and-tourist combination along the Niagara River, north of the falls and toward the point where the river flows into Lake Ontario.
Now, in an interesting combination of marketing, state loyalty and, of course, selling of a product, Chaumette Vineyards and Winery, a Ste. Genevieve County operation that is growing rapidly, has formed a partnership with Great Restaurants (Big Sky Café, Blue Water Grill, Remy’s Kitchen & Wine Bar) for an exclusive wine relationship. The winery’s production of Big T Chardonel, beginning with the 2003 vintage, which is available now, will be sold only at the three restaurants and at the winery.
This is an experiment.
Neither Tim Mallett of Great Restaurants nor Hank Johnson of Chaumette expects to sell a million cases. But with restaurateurs these days listing their meat and vegetable purveyors on their menus (An American Place, Riddle’s and Cardwell’s at the Plaza, to list a few local examples), maybe it’s time for restaurants and wineries to strike up a duet.
The wine, white and just a shade off dry, is pleasant, fruity and easy to pair with a variety of dishes. At an introductory tasting, Chef Randy Brobst prepared scallops in a light sauce that were outstanding with the Chardonel alongside.
Big T, by the way, is not related to Mr. T, the jewelry-bedecked television performer in the old series "The A Team," nor do he and Mrs. T combine on a spicy tomato juice blend to help make excellent Bloody Mary cocktails. Big T really is Louis Thebeau, whose land was purchased to serve as one of the Chaumette Winery’s vineyards. The Thebeaus continued to live in their home and work their vegetable garden while Johnson’s crew planted vines in Chardonel grapes.
That particular vineyard was used to make the wine that later was named Big T, and the label bears an artist’s impression of Thebeau.
Big T will be an interesting case study in the Missouri wine business and whether it can become a subject of major interest for St. Louisans, perhaps making them as interested in local wineries as they are in local peach and tomato farmers. The wine will be sold only at the three Mallett restaurants and at the winery. The price will be $6 a glass, $28 a bottle at the restaurants, $18 a bottle at the winery. For those planning a journey to Ste. Genevieve to save a sawbuck on a bottle, Mallett is way ahead of you. He has a $10 corkage fee for those who bring their own wine to the restaurants.
–Joe