Given recent developments, it almost looks as if the forces of ABC – Anything But Chardonnay – are winning a larger share of American drinkers in the battle for white wine supremacy. Spanish white wines from the Albarino grape are making a move into the market, and other white grapes – Pinot Gris (or Grigio, depending on whether winemaker prefers French or Italian), Pinot Blanc (or Bianco, with the same explanation), Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Fume Blanc, Viognier, Marsanne – also are being vinified and marketed for a pre-dinner or with-dinner selection.
And they come from all over the world. Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is among the best anywhere; in France, the Sancerre and Vouvray wines made in the Loire Valley are from the Fume Blanc, or Sauvignon Blanc, grape, and from the Chenin Blanc. Marsanne and Roussane grow well in the Northern Rhone and, of course, the Chardonnay grape is the source of Chablis in France and of a variety of white wines in all other countries.
German vintners make some excellent wines, but deciphering a German label can be difficult, and many of the wines tend toward too much sweetness for the dry-wine fan. Riesling, of course, and Gewurztraminer can be vinified dry, and often are.
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon are used for white wines in other grape-growing regions of the world, with winemakers bringing their individual touches. Trebbiano Toscano is a popular Italian grape, and Muscadet, Viognier and dozens of other varieties have their fans.
Fans of white wine would be advised to have deep conversations with their favorite merchants about the various qualities of the individual wine.
French Vouvray, made in the Loire Valley region from the Chenin Blanc grape, now can be found as a sparkling wine, imported by Kevin Lynch, whose name on a label is nearly a guarantee of good wine at a moderate price. It is called Champalou, is in the $20 range and is a fine, small-bubble, crisp sparkler. It’s made in the traditional manner of aging and gaining carbonation in the bottle, and it will be a pleasant surprise for many Champagne drinkers. French law, by the way, restricts the use of the word Champagne on a wine label to wines coming only from the Champagne district around Reims and Epernay.
While travel in the last few weeks may have been broadening, it has cut into the production of tasting notes. This group of whites, in no particular order, represents tastings at home and away. . . .
ZD 2006 Rosa Lee Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc – Not only a splendid version of the wine, with crisp mineral qualities and fine fruit, but also a sustainable bottle because of the closure. A clear glass stopper makes its debut, under a foil capsule, and Brett deLeuze, president of the winery, notes that he’s using one of his to hold olive oil. Brett’s brother, Robert, is the winemaker, and the delightful wine, a marvelous match with oysters on the half shell, is named for their mother, Rosa Lee. Unfortunately, this wine is only available at the winery, or through but it is well worth the effort and the $20 price tag.
Charles Krug 2006 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc – Peter Mondavi’s version of the same wine features tart fruit and a pleasant finish, wine with excellent balance and a great deal of flavor. A good value at $18.
Hogue 2006 Columbia Valley Pinot Grigio – A vetran Washington state wine operation, Hogue’s modestly priced (about $10) Pinot Grigio has satisfactory flavor, but is a little on the thin side.
Martin Ray 2006 Mendocino County Pinot Gris – Same grape as above, different language of origin, but the California version, at about $20, has a great deal of body, more than is usually found in this wine. Outstanding crisp flavor and a long, friendly finish.
Albarino wines from Spain’s Rias Baixas region – The area, pronounced Ree-as Buy-shuss, is in Galicia, in the northwestern corner of Spain, and 90 percent of the grapes are the white Albarino, with Treixadura and Loureiro Bianco grapes making up most of the remainder. Blending is often done, but wines that say Albarino on the label must be totally from that grape. The wines, vinified in stainless steel, tend to be light and crisp with a hint of lemon or melon. I tasted several made by Martin Codax from the Val do Salnes sub-region, where the latter taste is strongest, and a couple from other producers. Codax’ 2005 and 2006 (the latter had more strength) both were tasty and would be pleasant with a picnic lunch. The Salneval and Fulget, both from ‘05, had excellent fruit and balance. All were priced between $20 and $15.
JC Cellars 2005 Marsanne – A lovely, fruit-forward version of a white Rhone wine comes from winemaker Jeff Cohen, with grapes from the Preston Vineyards of Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley. There’s a gravelly quality that gives the wine almost a texture, but white fruit (white peaches, maybe?) and good acidity provide balance and a complex, interesting finish, perhaps a splurge at $32, but a brawny, fascinating wine.
Drylands 2006 Sauvignon Blanc – As mentioned above, New Zealand’s Marlborough region is home to some of the best sauvignon blanc, and the 2006 offering from Drylands is one of the best of the best. A beautiful, perfectly balanced wine, with complex flavor but an easy-drinking style, and a smooth finish. Excellent value with a fish dinner at $15.
And a couple of chardonnays. . . .
Robert Mondavi 2004 Napa Reserve Chardonnay – A splendid California version of the wine, big and buttery, with vanilla overtones bringing a full range of flavor and a hint of oak adding a lengthy finish. On the high side at $35, but an excellent wine.
Martin Ray 2005 Reserve Chardonnay – Another excellent offering from a veteran winemaker whose white reserve is closer in style to the French Chablis, with a delightful crispness and a pleasing smoothness on the palate. (About $25.)
-Joe