The Shaved Duck has re-opened in a very different mood. The interior looks relatively unchanged and, oh, yes, the traditional Belgian duck-fat French fries are still there. But most of the menu has gone toward barbecue and their takes on traditional American food, like three styles of chili. The smoker is working in the back and immortalized in a large charcoal drawing in the dining room. It makes for an easy dinner stop for those going to theater and other functions at Tower Grove Park or Tower Grove Abbey, which is only a few blocks away.
Trying to save a calorie or two, we skipped a first course and headed straight for entrees. The Big Jimmy platter offered up all four of their meat offerings. The best was clearly the ribs, tender, moist, full of flavor, a good rendition. And the pulled pork also was rich, tender and definitely satisfying. Pulled chicken was okay, but not outstanding, but it was the brisket that brought a grave disappointment. Thin slices had little of the true beefy flavor that comes from a long-cooked brisket. The barbecue sauces are housemade, including a tomato-bourbon-brown sugar, a horseradish mustard and a vinegar-chile, but none offered anything special. The fillip of special, chef-induced flavor that lifts barbecue sauce out of the ordinary was absent. The four containers on the table were unlabeled, and when we pointed to the other one, the server responded, “Oh, that’s just plain ketchup.” Be warned. A Caesar salad alongside wore cornbread croutons and a very decent dressing, lacking a strong anchovy note but nevertheless first-rate.
The only un-smoked entree on the menu is duck, described as a half duck roasted with honey glaze. Consequently, when the server asked, “Do you want a whole duck or a half?” we were taken aback. The half duck was a generous size, certainly, and its skin was glossy, browned nicely, but only erratically crisp, and displayed no flavor of honey. Under the skin, though, the meat was properly cooked and very satisfying. The home fries offered on the menu turned out to be ordinary thin-cut french fries that were nicely browned but didn’t have much flavor.
We split a piece of blackberry crumb pie, which suffered the inevitable sogginess from a sojourn in the refrigerator, but even so kept some flakiness, and tasted homemade. There’s a big by-the-glass wine list, and plenty of beer options. Service was reliable and prompt.
Have the ribs, sample the duck-fat fries, and try not to mourn the loss of the previous menu.
The Shaved Duck
2900 Virginia Ave.
314-776-1407
www.theshavedduck.com Dinner Tues.-Sat., Brunch Sun.
Wheelchair access: Poor
Smoking: No
Entrees: $9-$17
Credit cards: Yes
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We’ve only been to The Shaved Duck for brunch since the reopened, but the food has been outstanding. The service…well it is more than a little lax, but I guess that should be expected on a Sunday afternoon. Obviously I can’t speak to the quality of the dinner menu, but based on the quality of the brunch it is something I am looking forward to.