It really never occurred to me to ask David and Stephanie Stitt why they called part of Veritas' new location the Mustard Bar. If I'd thought about, I suppose I would have wondered if it was like a Bloody Mary bar or a taco bar, a line of garnishes spread out for ad lib usage. But mainly, at Veritas I think about the food, not the titles. The Stitt's son Mathis runs the kitchen, having pretty much grown up there.
The move last year a couple of miles south on Clarkson Road makes things seem roomier. The wine collection is now in a room toward the rear – and feel free to browse and perhaps pick out something for the meal being served, for a corkage fee of $10. There's a new cocktail menu, as well. Thursday through Saturday nights, they offer a more formal menu, varying week to week, but the lighter Mustard Bar menu is still available. All this review is looking at is the lighter food – the serious food will wait for another time.
The Mustard Bar proper is toward the front of the space, with a bar and some tables. The larger dining area faces an open kitchen. And here's why it ended up being dubbed the Mustard Bar. Three of these:
Ah, but let us talk about what's on the plates. A big pile of french fries lightly showered with parmesan and served with aioli, more lightly garlicked than it once was, could serve as a starter, or a good snack with a glass of wine. But they can also be had with the sandwiches, so for a foray in another direction, aim for the devils on horseback. The variations on the dish with this name are myriad, but Veritas has a prune stuffed with cheese and wrapped in bacon, the whole thing fried, according to the menu. But it's so un-greasy that my guess is it's thrown briefly into a hot oven. It's a great combination of sweet/salty/smoky and chewy/crunchy/soft. Served on skewers, they're irresistible, and easy to share.
Five kinds of cheese go into the cheese panini, cheddar, Swiss, munster, feta and cream cheeses. Riding shotgun atop them are grilled onions and oven-dried tomatoes, the whole on a white artisan bread. It's absolutely killer, complex and satisfying. Egg salad may have met its perfect mate when it's served with a slice of prosciutto ham. It's comfort-food egg salad, creamy, a little chunky, the perfect mate for the salty ham, all on a croissant with some greens on the side. Speaking of sides, pay attention to the apple-beet slaw, crunchy, tangy with (aha!) mustard, and a wonderful color.
Veritas turns out to offer a remarkable hamburger, too. A large patty of good-quality beef rests under a crown of pimiento cheese, onions both pickled and in a jam, other housemade pickles, aioli and a slice of tomato. It's an excellent burger, but not for the obsessively tidy. The pork sandwich was nice enough, with slaw and pickled garlic on the shredded braised pork, but, frankly, even as fond as I am of the hog, it paled next to that burger.
Service was pleasant, although it's fair to point out that historically, it's been the weak spot in an otherwise-satisfying place to eat. I make no promises about what it might be like on the late-week nights with the bigger menu, or even at a truly busy lunch. On the other hand, when it's not packed, this is a pleasantly quiet spot, good for conversations.
If the address leaves you puzzled, they're in a large shopping plaza at the northeast corner of Clayton and Clarkson Roads. It's easy to see just after you turn in.
The Mustard Bar
Veritas Gateway
15860 Fountain Plaza, Ellisville
636-227-6800
Lunch and Dinner Tues.-Sat.
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Good
Smoking: No
Mustard Bar menu: $6-$15