William Grimes, who was for several years the restaurant critic for the New York Times, has left that beat. But not, to a certain degree, very far; in today's Times he has a story about "The Big Meal", a play that's set in a restaurant about three generations of a family's life. The foodish among us revel in such comparisons like restaurants and theater, which Grimes does,and you can read about it here.
And for a review, rather than Grimes' feature piece, here's Charles Isherwood's from March 22.