If you like Mom-n-Pop restaurants, here's one for you. Sister Cities, on South Grand, just north of Meramec, is a fine spot for casual folks who have a group that mixes people who like spicy food and those who can't, or don't, do heat. The concept is New Orleans-y food and St. Louis-y food, and "everything is homemade except the french fries," says the owner. That's an encouraging announcement.
They also do barbecue, and hard it was, indeed, to pass up smoked wings. But somehow it was an onion ring sorta day, and that turned out to be Providence murmuring in our ears. Thin, crisp, un-greasy, a very light seasoned batter, they were nothing short of fabulous. I'd come back if only for them.
Another strong entry was the gumbo, thick and rich with the complexity of flavor that marks a real-thing batch of the stew. The dab of rice in the middle balanced the richness out nicely. It's available as a side dish, but a generous serving.
Yes, poor boys, but we tried one of the shrimp options for the poor boys in a soft taco instead. The shrimp can be had fried or sauteed; the saute uses small shrimp in a spicy brown mixture rather like the traditional New Orleans barbecued shrimp, which, of course, isn't barbecued at all. The butter-garlic-black pepper mixture often has Worcestershire sauce in it, and here, it appears, some cayenne as well. And the shrimp, small as they were, weren't overcooked. They'd be killer in a poor boy with the house remoulade sauce.
Chicken breast stuffed with dirty rice, said the menu. A vision of a rolled boneless breast with the dirty rice tucked inside benefitting from the chicken's juices flew through my head. That wasn't what arrived. "Stuffed" has become another of those misused words on menus, and it was my own fault I was surprised. Two boneless skinless breast filets, seasoned and sauteed, sandwiched the dirty rice, all topped with a bit of the pan juices that had been thickened slightly. The dirty rice, an old Louisiana standard, was full of ground pork, bits of andouille sausage, vigorously seasoned, and absolutely delicious. The chicken was decent enough, although I have to admit that this particular cut is my least favorite of the whole bird, and the blackened-style seasoning helped, too. Despite the disappointment, it was still pretty tasty. We were tempted by the fried potato salad, which turns out to be diced and fried potatoes dressed in a vinaigrette, not traditional potato salad breaded and tossed into hot grease! Next time.
Dessert is beignets, fried to order, although we were sufficiently full to be forced to pass this time. A couple of St. Louis police came in as we were leaving; they surely managed to have some. Bread pudding, the classic New Orleans dessert, is available as an intermittent special, the particular type at the fancy of the chef.
Sister Cities is very informal and simple in its decor. There's no liquor license yet, either. Parking next door at the health center. Service was pleasant, enthusiastic and recognized the cops as regulars, a good sign.
Sister Cities
4144 S. Grand Ave.
314-875-9653
on Facebook
Lunch and Dinner Tues.-Sat.
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Fair
Smoking: No
Entrees/Sandwiches: $6-$9