By now, we've all gotten used to seeing buildings that once were fast-food spots recycled into something like Wing-a-Ding-Ding or Mamma's House of Hummus. In a world with not enough places like that and too many fast food joints, that's a good thing. But sometimes that same sort of process works differently, and an old, yea, even ancient place sheds its skin and emerges the same but not quite the same.
In old Carondelet, now re-styled the Patch, at the corner where Michigan turns into Ivory sits Schoemehl's South Side Grill. It's a corner tavern, the decor updated some but not obnoxiously we're-so-hip so. The sun pours in through large windows, but the bar somehow still has that tantalizing dark air of quiet noonday drinking. And they've begun to refer to the area in the back as the beer garden rather than the patio, a fine touch of The Real Thing.
Still, in the old days, the taverns that operated here wouldn't have had salads beyond perhaps potato salad, or, in later years, slaw. And they surely wouldn't have had a house dressing made of avocados. It adorns the Signature Salad, a tower of greens, chicken, a bit of black bean-corn relish and a little tomato, and absolutely charms with its jade-green mysteries.
Then there are the wings. It was a surprise to see a casual place like this with an actual Presentation of chicken wings. And then we thought, "Eight bucks for four wings?" But they're huge and they're delicious. Smoked a little and then flash-fried and glazed, they look almost lacquered in their glossiness. Still moist despite all this attention, they're faintly sweet, and a drizzle of what seems to be Asian chile sauce, spicy but not dangerous, just offers a little bit of contrast. They're not Buffalo wings at all, but they're darn good. The dill-laced dip is unnecessary, but hold onto it if there are house-made chips or fries coming, because it's pretty darn tasty, too.
The only sub-par thing we tried was the South of the Border burger, with queso jack cheese (their phrase) and pickled jalapenos. Ordered medium-rare, it was cooked beyond pink all the way through. Still, it was pretty juicy and cheese and jalapenos pump up almost anything this side of sponge cake.
Amiable service appropriate to a spot with plenty of televisions, which means casual but not distracted. That beer garden is looking pretty good once the rain stops. And, oh, yes, there's live music sometimes.
Schoemehl's South Side Grill
7529 Michigan Ave.
314-932-7774
Lunch Tues.-Sun, Dinner daily
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Poor
Smoking: No
Sandwiches: $7-$9