Current wisdom says Clayton is cooling as a restaurant neighborhood.
We’re not so sure.
Not only are optimistic local owners continuing to open new spots or expand old ones, but Ruth’s Chris Steak House has chosen to locate its return, a decade after deparing downtown, smack at the corner of Brentwood and Forsyth boulevards. There’s even an outdoor dining area, which seems a little incongruous for a steakhouse, which traditionally is not only dark but also blends the oxymoron of business-like and romantic. Still, it’s certainly in keeping with What’s Happening Now in St. Louis.
The restaurant, after a 10-year hiatus from St. Louis, is operated by a group from Indianapolis and have one there.
Ruth’s Chris has always managed to set itself somewhat apart from the other well-known steakhouses that turned themselves into chains. It has to do with its roots in New Orleans, though the mother house there has been closed since Hurricane Katrina. But it’s more than just the signature butter-topped steaks that are a little different.
There’s a certain coziness to the dining area, which is divided into several sections, including some that can be closed off for groups of varying sizes—hello, pro sports teams—and it shows less of the aura of testosterone than others of its ilk. As is so often the case in recent years, service was creaky in the early weeks, but seems to have smoothed. Nevertheless, there was an episode of "Who gets the shrimp?" not acceptable in a restaurant of its class, and certainly nor for a table of two.
New Orleans-style cuisine is known for gilding the lily, and that’s not a complaint. Burgundians do the same thing. Many of the appetizers, sides and desserts come from the Creole-Cajun tradition, and are often worth leaving the shrimp-cocktail-baked-potato trail.
Seafood gumbo, for example, was excellent, a great depth of flavor but not flaming hot in terms of spiciness. It was, however, at perfect serving temperature, an increasing rarity lately. Barbecued shrimp in New Orleans parlance are not grilled. Rather, they’re quickly baked in a butter-based sauce that has lots of variations. Traditionally, they’re served shell and all, but at Ruth’s, they ‘re medium–sized shrimp that arrive shelled in a terra-cotta-colored sauce. We differed in our opinions on this. Ann thought the shrimp were a tad overcooked and the sauce tasted more of inexpensive white wine than of seafood and butter. It tasted better mopped up with bread shrimp, but even then lacked the indulgent richness that the sauce should provide. Joe agreed about the shrimp, but was happier with the sauce. A little more garlic would have made him even happier, but he thought the pepper was used in excellent balance, as it had been in the gumbo.
Among the steaks, a 12-ounce rib eye came perfectly trimmed, an uncommon situation with that cut. It was comparatively thin, but arrived medium-rare as ordered, full of flavor and an exemplary piece of steer. We also tried the veal chop, a favorite cut of meat among St. Louisans. Here, it’s marinated in garlic, onions and pepper vinegar and served with slices of peppers, both bell and Anaheim, the latter adding a delightful hit of piquancy without fire. The meat was tender and unusually flavorful for veal, not just from the marinade alone, and the combination of flavors just right to complement the chop. This is an equal to any veal chop in town right now, no small claim.
As is often the case in steakhouses, main courses and side dishes must be ordered separately. Many of the side dishes are generously portioned, and while some might grimace at the idea of seven onion rings for $6.50, they are huge, between one and two inches in thickness, not circumference, and a satisfactory side dish for two people. On the other hand shoestring potatoes, crisp, hot, and almost totally greaseless, arrived in a napkin-lined basket, almost enough to fill a gallon container. Enough for both teams in a tennis doubles match.
Wine list expectations can be high; the length and breadth of the list is fine, and prices are tall, but a good idea to accompany a steak is a Ridge Zinfandel, available by the glass. It’s expensive at $12, though a generous pour, and we commend Ruth’s Chris for adding it. A lot of diners would like a glass of fine wine with dinner, but don’t want to go through the hassle of dealing with a full bottle. The wine was excellent, as all the Ridge zins we’ve tasted have been.
Desserts are also quite large. Nor surprisingly, there’s bread pudding, an old New Orleans favorite long before it was seen on restaurant menus in other cities. This version is very homey, with raisins and a bourbon sauce, quite simple compared to the versions with bells and whistles often found in restaurants elsewhere. It’s an excellent example of the style. If you’re looking for dazzling rather than satisfying, seek your rewards in the caramelized banana cream pie. Not surprisingly, is actually a tart, tall and round. The custard is banana and white chocolate, rich and smooth but not gooey, topped with slices of fresh banana sugared and run under a grill to caramelize them. The remains of both remains made a fine breakfast the next morning, though they would benefit more with chicory coffee to accompany them.
Not an inexpensive restaurant – the cheapest entree is $19, the most except for the lobster and the lamb chops, which are market priced and above $40. But it stands above most of its peers in many respects. An interesting, and unfortunate note on the menu points out, "gratuity not included." This might be appropriate in a gateway city, since European travelers often assume that a service charge, or tip. is already on the check, but we don’t think it’s necessary in the Midwest, and some diners might even be insulted. It’s like charging for valet parking, which causes an immediate impression that someone is cheap.
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
1 N. Brentwood Blvd, Clayton
314-783-9900
Credit cards: All major
Wheelchair access: All major
Smoking: Yes
