Paul Manno told us on our last visit that he’s never advertised. Since the move from downtown some 20 years ago, it’s true, as far as we can recall. It’s all been word of mouth and media reviews, plus superb meals, to produce the business that keeps the place busy even on weeknights. The unassuming location in a West County strip mall, the interior dark even on the brightest of midsummer evenings, makes it feel even more like what editors used to label an “insiders’ secret.” But it’s obviously no secret; regular folks hang out with those from the sporting world, the latter mostly left alone to enjoy their evening. The noise level is not unreasonable, and the lighting is sufficient for reading menus.
And then there’s the food. Manno’s is always a place where we have difficulty choosing between pasta entrees and non-pasta ones; fortunately our most recent visit was with a party large and informal enough for us to do some of each. We kicked things off with some excellent early-season heirloom tomatoes used in both a bruschetta and a tomato-mozzarella salad. The diced tomatoes in the bruschetta were wonderfully garlicky and dressed early enough that their juices sank into the bread, and the high-grade mozzarella reminded us why it’s mostly wasted on pizza, where its delicacy is lost. A good grade of balsamic vinegar helped all the flavors combine beautifully.
A tumble of lightly breaded calamari didn’t last long at our table, the chunky, slightly sweet tomato sauce alongside a nice gesture but pretty much unnecessary with seafood this tender and full of flavor. A piece of canneloni, chosen by someone who’d been seduced by a non-pasta entree, was just as much of a hit for a first course, sauced by more of the chunky tomato sauce, plus a white besciamella, or cream sauce, with a filling of minced, moist veal brightened by hints of garlic.
Our old favorite, anchovy spaghettini, showed up as a wonderful mound of al dente pasta, lightly sauced with tomato, the anchovies having dissolved in the sauce as is their habit and practice, leaving only their essence behind to woo the reluctant few. Tortelloni sauced with cream and prosciutto, with a few peas around for color, were at the right point between chewy and tender, too, the cream sauce surprisingly light and carrying the ham’s flavor. And from the list of the evening’s specials came a lamb ragu with rigatoni. Coarsely ground lamb marked a real Bolognese sauce, where the feature is the meat, and tomato just comes along for a ride with the aromatics like onion and other vegetables like minced carrot and celery. It was a remarkable version, hearty and satisfying.
Scallops with lemon and mushrooms are long-time mainstays on their menu, huge discs of flesh seared perfectly and sauced with the tang of lemon, a perfect foil for the sweetness of the seafood. It’s one of our favorite dishes. The rack of lamb had a crisp coating of breadcrumbs, and arrived carved and sauced with capers. A little rosemary had been hanging around, but didn’t try to outshine its peers. First-rate meat, carefully cooked, good enough that it was difficult not to pick up the bones and gnaw.
Room for dessert is always in short supply after meals like this. Still, out of a sense of duty, we shared serving of house-made tiramisu, light and moist and more about the coffee than the alcohol. It provided about a spoonful for each of us, a nice finish to a superlative meal.
Paul Manno’s Cafe
75 Forum Center (Olive Blvd. & N. Woods Mill Rd.), Creve Coeur
314-878-1274
Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Difficult
Smoking: No
Entrees: $15-$35
