Nice Matin, named for the largest newspaper in the South of France, sits, sidewalk tables at the ready, on a corner of Manhattan's Upper West Side. Part of a Manhattan restaurant group called Tour de France, each featuring a regional French cuisine, its menu sings of Provence and the Riviera. And so does its interior, quite Art Deco, although the terrazzo floor and aluminum chairs help raise the noise levels. Still, we've always been able to eavesdrop at the bar and hear friends speaking from across the table.
First courses alone could feed one very happily. Steamed mussels with rouille, the ruddy, spicy, aioli-type sauce often served with bouillabaisse, brought memories of Nice, Cannes and other towns along the Mediterranean Sea. Spicy merguez, the tangy lamb sausage we just don't see enough,stayed moist from its grilling and was a handsome fit with an Alsatian riesling.
And then there was the pissaladiere, the onion tart of the region. Not quite a pizza but riding a yeast dough, onions braised until sweet, black olives and cheese, plus a bit of dried tomato pesto; we always say oui to the optional anchovies. Tuna tartare, not quite as authentic, still tasted good with a lemony vinaigrette showing a bit of peppery harissa paste.
Mussels also sang under a slightly different treatment, prepared Provencal style with garlic, tomato, basil and shallot providing a more complex broth, and the complexity made the treatment superior to the appetizer. Another hit was seared scallops, sauced in a finely nuanced pesto comprising basil, garlic, and a very lightn touch of fennel. But probably the hit of the main courses was veal scallops, sauced with thyme, garlic and Marsala wine, then joined by cherry tomatoes, shiitake mushrooms and some Swiss chard, the whole adding up to a truly exciting dish that showed off flavor and texture in delicious French style.
Dinner was excellent in all respects, so much so that we decided to pass on a dessert list that showed lots of familiar dishes, but nothing to make us risk over-eating. Coffee apres was a satisfactory wrap to the meal. Service was brisk and cheerful, with servers offering complete explanations of unfamiliar offerings. The wine list is filled with interesting choices and includes prices that are high for St. Louisans but reasonable for New Yorkers. Alas, though, no Rin-Quin-Quin, the lovely peach-scented and -flavored wine that's a specialty of the area and which would have been a perfect fit.
Nice Matin
201 W. 79th St., New York City
212-873-6423
Breakfast daily, Lunch Mon.-Fri., Brunch Sat.-Sun, Dinner nightly
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Fair
Smoking: No
Entrees: $17-$28