Momos (named for the Greek god of satire, not the Central Asian dumplings) has been rumbling along almost under the radar long after its time as the hot new thing. But it continues to draw the young, the nearly young, and those who consider themselves more or less in that category. It’s not just the belly dancers who swirl six nights a week and sometimes at lunch. The atmosphere is casual and Mediterranean, with outdoor seating very popular this time of year. Inside, beyond the original room, there are some cozy booths in cubbyholes. But this isn’t standard Greek food, and those who come expecting it will be disappointed. Taramosalata, for instance, seemed to be made with no fish roe at all, lacking its characteristic flavor, color and saltiness. Hummus, also on the “spreads” section of the menu, bore the pink color of smoked paprika, deep enough that we thought it was the taramosalata. Very tasty, to be sure, but a surprise to the eyes. Best of the three was made of fava beans, chickpeas, the inevitable olive oil and a hint of mint. Very different, very refreshing, especially when combined with the warm, tender, fresh little wedges of pita in a generous serving. From the meze lists, another lamb dish,
There are a few entree plates with pasta or kebabs, but the emphasis is on meze, the Greek equivalent of tapas, and shared the same way. From the entrees, a lamb kebab arrived properly trimmed and cooked, rubbed with some cumin and perhaps cinnamon. A sweet-sour red wine reduction was underneath it, and some very soggy potatoes described as lemon oregano, but lacking lemon and barely showing oregano. The sauce brought mixed reviews, one of us liked it, one of us didn’t.
Crispy eggplant fries had been dipped in panko, the Japanese bread crumbs, and they were indeed, crisp and un-greasy, but the eggplant was strangely undercooked. The dip was described as skordalia, the traditional Greek spread made with potato and garlic. The Momos version, colored orange, was, we were told, seasoned with lemon and sherry, and the menu noted tomato, too, but all were so unobtrusive as to be unnoticeable. The garlic spinach, however, was fresh, generously studded with equally fresh garlic, properly hot, and at the perfect point of cooking.
But the hit of the meze for us was the grilled octopus. This is not a dish for the reluctant. Whole baby octopi are cooked with lemon and garlic, the tentacles slightly chewy, the occasional bit of char from the process just adding to the fun. Absolutely yummy, the sort of dish we try to divide equally so as to avoid wounded feelings. People will either love it or hate it; you can tell where we fall.
New to us was the chocolate phyllo dessert. Two triangles of phyllo pastry were served with a drizzle of honey, a light drift of cinnamon, some chocolate ice cream and a little fruit. Sounds simple enough, but the combination absolutely swings, both in terms of taste and texture.
Lots of cocktails, several choices of ouzo and metaxa, the Greek brandy, almost no Greek wine, which was a surprise. Service was pleasant, perhaps a little leisurely, but, hey, it’s sort of the Mediterranean.
Momos Ouzeria Taverna
Lunch Mon.-Sat., Dinner nightly Credit cards: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes Smoking: Yes Entrees:$15-$20
Comments
One response
I was very disappointed by a recent visit … flat soda, bland chicken on the Greek salad, etc.