We dropped by Modesto on impulse the other night after working up an appetite doing our civic duty. Hungry, and probably slightly crabby, we needed to be fed pronto. And were we ever fed! Several dishes were particularly remarkable. Yes, the cheeseless onion soup was tasty, the baby octopi (octopusses?) with potatoes were charming, and then there's the new deep-fried garlic cloves, a plate of remarkable flavors.
But three things stand out. Zarzuela, the seafood stew, with more fish than broth, was fabulous. Saffron, pepper, heat, a single, giant, tender sea scallop, shrimps, Manila clams and mussels, all perfectly cooked, all in a great broth. This may be the best fish soup in St. Louis right now.
The bunuelos de bacalao are codfish fritters. Doesn't sound appetizing? Not these crisp clouds of fish-ness. Light and fluffy inside, crunchy outside, they don't even need the lemon aioli.
And then there was the white and dark chocolate bread pudding with a Licor 43 caramel sauce. Licor 43, for those unfamiliar with it, is a citrusy-vanilla liqueur, and blends in beautifully with the caramel flavor. The square of pudding is glazed under the broiler to crisp up the top and the edges, adding a great texture. We wrote about the bread pudding here a year ago. It's gotten even better.
Modesto
5257 Shaw Ave.
314-772-8272
Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Fair
Smoking: Yes
Tapas: $7-$14
