Migas

It’s no secret that tomato season is one of my favorite times of the year and that breakfast is a favorite meal, even if I forego it more often than I’d like. When it comes to combining the two, however, I don’t think anyone can beat an old friend who would walk into a restaurant carrying his own home-grown tomato and slice it to accompany with his bacon and eggs. A dead-ripe tomato is a fine thing, especially when used to mop up a bit of egg yolk.

But there’s more to do with them than that, especially at this time of  year, when home-growns are so easily available.

This recipe, for migas, is via Texas Monthly magazine, for the version served at an Austin restaurant called Manuel’s. Migas are common in Tex-Mex spots, but this is an excellent version. Joe and I differ only on how cooked we want the vegetables. He prefers them cooked to softness a little beforehand; I like them added late in the process so they barely get warm and retain all their crunchiness. You can substitute other kinds of peppers, depending on what you have on hand and how spicy you like the dish. I’ve added a pinch of dried chile powder – real chiles, not the "chili powder" that one uses for making chili, which also contains cumin and oregano, although that wouldn’t be the end of the world. A white onion is more authentic, I am told.

Something magical happens when the eggs and tomatoes meet the corn tortillas, providing a flavor and texture that is missing with those made from wheat. Migas could probably be made with hothouse tomatoes, but the good ones emphasize that the magic, carrying the dish close to perfection. This is certainly vegetarian-friendly, and I understand that at Manuel’s it’s served with black beans and sliced fruit. I think chorizo would be the ideal match, but crisp bacon is pretty darn fine.

2 tbsp oil or butter

3 corn tortillas, cut into 1-inch squares

5 eggs, beaten

dash of salt and pepper

1 medium ripe tomato, seeded and diced

1/2 medium white onion, chopped1 serrano pepper (or whatever pepper you have on hand; adjust quantity to taste), seeded and diced

1 tsp. chopped fresh cilantro

1 c. Monterey Jack cheese, shredded

Heat a medium skillet or saute pan over medium to high heat. When hot, add oil or butter. When it’s hot, add the tortillas. Stir occasionally until they begin to brown, about 3 or 4 minutes. If you are adding the vegetables to be cooked, put them in now, and cook until the onions start to soften. Drop the heat to low. Add the eggs, and stir, letting them scramble. When they start to firm up, which will be very quickly, add the cilantro and the chopped vegetables if you didn’t do it earlier. Continue to stir gently until the eggs are as cooked as you’d like, add most of the cheese and give it one last stir. Top each serving with the last of the cheese.

Serves 2.