Katie’s Pizzeria Cafe

Lots of new restaurants appear to be popping up around town, and Katie’s Pizzeria Café, which we tried recently for an after-theater supper, came as a serendipitous choice — welcoming,…

Katies_004 Lots of new restaurants appear to be popping up around town, and Katie’s Pizzeria Café, which we tried recently for an after-theater supper, came as a serendipitous choice — welcoming, tasty and modestly priced. It opens at 6:30 a.m. for coffee, begins food service at 11 and serves until 1 a.m., something only a young restaurateur would be strong enough to attempt, but we hope she can continue.

Across the street from the Esquire Theater, the interior has been redecorated after some other restaurant tenants and feels new-school Italian minimalist but with a few pieces that could easily have belonged to Nonna. On a wall at the end of the bar, black and white Italian films run silently; they’re subtitled, so if they’re in your line of sight, a talent for lip-reading Italian isn’t necessary. During our visit, "8 ½" was on screen, so we played name-that-performer while we waited. (Anouk Aimee, Marcello Mastroianni and Claudia Cardinale, for starters.) Avid theater-goers will realize that it reminds them of the musical "Nine," the play based on the Federico Fellini film.

Katie’s has been open only a couple of weeks, making this an extremely early review in light of our usual policy. So be warned things change in restaurants this early in their lives, but we were happy with what we found and thought we’d share the meal with you.

The menu is shorter than the movie. Katie Lee, operating her first restaurant, comes to the business with good blood lines; she’s the niece of Zoe Houk, who’s operated restaurants around town for more than 30 years. Katie’s pizza is not St. Louis traditional style. It has the pre-requisite thin crust, but no provel, and we doubt if there’s a spot within 250 miles where you will find a pizza with potatoes, parsnips and pancetta bacon, a combination that will intrigue some and leave others with a funny expression on their faces.

Three first courses (cannelini bean dip, prosciutto spring rolls, and a dish of shrimp, olives and raw fennel), and four salads (mixed, chopped, shrimp Caesar and grilled tuna Nicoise) precede the pizzas. We tried the chopped, properly named the Italian Market Vegetable Chop Salad. At $7.95, it’s a very generous dish, a dinner plate edged with arugula and the center filled with julienned carrots, shaved fresh fennel, a little red onion, some chickpeas and baby tomatoes and a few pine nuts, all marinated in a vinaigrette. It’s definitely entree-sized, and surprisingly good the next day, we discovered.

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Pizzas, except for the simple ones listed under the heading "Bambini," are 11 inches across. Out of ten pizze, three are vegetarian. We chose one with Genoa salami, onion, hot chiles, calamata olives and fresh mozzarella, and were delighted with it. First of all, it’s handsome, the thin salami slices cupping up to add a third dimension to a normally flat dish. The chiles seemed to be just a very light sprinkle of dried red pepper flakes, more of which was available if desired. It wasn’t swimming in cheese, and the crust was…. Mmmm, the crust. Very thin, very crisp. That thinness will endear it to locals, and so will the kitchen’s habit of spreading the toppings right to the edge. The occasional bubble here and there, told us it was definitely homemade. Firm enough to easily eat the wedges out of hand, and not very easy to tackle with a knife and fork. Good stuff.

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Nine wines by the glass from their list, which isn’t all Italian, but leans in that direction.

The Washington University campus already has discovered this place, which may mean that Sunday evenings will be crowded. But you’ll always have a movie to watch.

Katie’s Pizzeria Café

6611 Clayton Rd., Clayton

314-727-8585

Coffee, Lunch and Dinner Daily

Credit cards: All major

Wheelchair access: Poor

Smoking: After 9 p.m.

Entrees. $11-$13

Katie's Pizzeria Cafe on Urbanspoon

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