Every once in a while I come across a single dish that's so delectable that it warrants a heads-up to readers. That's the case with a new item on the small-plate menu at the Restaurant at the Cheshire.
It's called Ahi Tuna, Thin and Raw, and it's closer to sashimi than a carpaccio. Beautifully fresh, of course, and dressed with an intriguing sweet-salty-spicy mixture that's clearly soy sauce-based. On top is a tangle of hair-thin shreds of carrot, bits of crunchy deep-fried Fresno chile and what seems to be cilantro sprouts.
The texture and taste are beautifully balanced, cool and crunchy and smooth and spicy, all bouncing around the tastebuds waving and giggling.
Absolutely delicious.
The Restaurant at the Cheshire
7036 Clayton Ave.
314-932-7818
Dinner Tues.-Sun., Brunch Sun.
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Good
Smoking: No