Just a Bite: The Kitchen Sink

 If you're one of the folks who love those post-Thanksgiving mashups of all the leftovers layered on two defenseless slices of bread, I've got the dish for you. The Kitchen…

 If you're one of the folks who love those post-Thanksgiving mashups of all the leftovers layered on two defenseless slices of bread, I've got the dish for you. The Kitchen Sink – now, of course, in its elegant new digs on Union Boulevard – offers the Humble Pie.

This is not pie as in "apple". It is not even pie as in "chicken pot". The ancestor of this creation is, per the menu, shepherd's pie.

It is clearly, though, a distant ancestor. The Humble begins with crumbled jalapeno cornbread, which is layered with sauteed peppers and onions, a generous amount of shrimp, and intermittent bits of andouille sausage and tasso ham, both properly spicy. That's topped with a layer of mashed sweet potatoes that has small chunks of banana stirred into it. The whole thing is covereded with etouffe sauce and a shower of white cheddar cheese and popped into the oven to bake. This is made to order, so it takes a little while.

But Worth It. Oh, yes. Sweet-spicy-salty dance across the tongue in a way that recalls, of all things, the way a good pad Thai in that same unlikely justaposition of flavors.

Plenty of leftovers, which reheat well. (And it's pretty darn good cold.)

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The Kitchen Sink

255 Union Blvd.

314-454-1551

www.letseat.at/thekitchensink

Lunch and Dinner daily

Credit cards: Yes

Wheelchair access: Poor

Smoking: No

Entrees: $10-$15