Most folks know about firemen and their enthusiasm for good food. It's a long tradition. So when we saw a gaggle of firemen headed for the chow line at St. Mary Magdalen in Brentwood's fish fry, we nodded and smiled. It's a good sign.
The gymnasium is large, things are organized efficiently, and the traffic flows smoothly. At least it does inside. They're trying drive-thru for the first time this year, with a limited menu, and by the time we left, the parking lot was full, although all the drivers were patient and polite. (The church website has the layout for drive-thru lanes.)
The cod is the star here, big loins carefully breaded with cornmeal and not overcooked. The results are outstanding, tasty and moist. Putting it in one of the tacos is not the best place for it; this is not a lily requiring any gilding. The sides aren't as excellent as the cod; slaw is fresh but nothing exciting. No potato salad on the menu but pasta with a garlicky tomato sauce is nice. The fish and chips here, by the way, mean American chips, not french fries, sprinkled with parmesan cheese.
Homemade desserts, things like gooey butter cake, brownies, and a sort of s'mores bar, a layer of brownie, then marshmallow, chocolate chips and a piece of graham cracker. They're included with the dinners, as are water or coffee.
St. Mary Magdalen Catholic Church
2618 Brentwood Blvd. at Manchester, Brentwood
314-961-8400