On The Road

  • Pizza in Rome

    I'm just back from Italy, with a couple of nights in London to kick things off. And, as usual, the food mainly fell into the category of More, Please. (Like New Orleans, it's not impossible to get a bad meal in Italy, but the odds are in your favor.) Plenty of tales to be told,

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  • Kinder’s

    Road trip! I suppose there are folks those two words don't cause a slight rise in the pulse rate, but it's no one that I know.  While the apple season is peaking early, there's still a good excuse to drive up to Calhoun County, IL, to buy apples, and perhaps some fresh-pressed cider if you're

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  • New York Dim Sum

    We wrote about it some years ago, but I re-visited Jing Fong in New York's Chinatown and wrote about it in Relish. Very comfortable for the solo diner, by the way, especially since the traditional dim sum portions are small. You can read about it here.

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  • Fancy Food Show: Washington, DC

    Talk about an eater's dream: Thanks to a tip from an old wine-writer pal, I was able to go to the summer Fancy Food Show, held this year in Washington DC. Just as huge as every one says it is, there were still a few familiar booths, and one familiar face. I wrote about it

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  • Arington, VA: Jaleo

    How long ago was it that we became accepting of the idea that a good restaurant can maintain its quality if there's more than one location, and that some chefs can manage multiple restaurants very effectively? There was a time when I would have felt uncomfortable about recommending a suburban restaurant that was a branch

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  • Washington, DC: Mitsitam Cafe

    Even the most intrepid sightseer has to eat. In a deeply visitor-oriented environment (read: touristy), this is tricky sometimes, and the eater who's traveling with a youngster or a more hesitant adult companion can end up in the nether world of chicken nuggets and frozen french fries. I've been there. My first vacation with a

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  • On The Road: Driving and Drinking in France

    I haven't really meant to create a series of non-St. Louis entries, but the other day I got something from France in the mail. It's been very difficult for the average person to visit French (and German and Italian and…) wineries. Folks with a close relationship with their wine merchant could sometimes set something up

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  • New York: Dim Sum

    Just posted on the St. Louis Magazine blog Relish, this piece is about our favorite Chinatown dim sum spot. If you like St. Louis dim sum but think you keep getting the same choices, this is the spot for you. Huge and busy and open for dim sum 7 days a week, it buzzes with action,

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  • Noshing in New York

    A fast run to New York City, courtesy of one of those short-notice airfares, and a few casual meals plus one more formal one. That was at Danny Meyer's Maialino, located in the Gramercy Park Hotel, where I broke yet another of the Food Critic Rules: I ate out on Mothers Day. Indeed, I ate

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  • New York City: Nice Matin

    Nice Matin, named for the largest newspaper in the South of France, sits, sidewalk tables at the ready, on a corner of Manhattan's Upper West Side. Part of a Manhattan restaurant group called Tour de France, each featuring a regional French cuisine, its menu sings of Provence and the Riviera. And so does its interior,

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