On The Road

  • Paris: Musee des Arts Decoratif

    Here's the last bit from the trip to Paris last autumn. The Musee des Arts Decoratifs isn't for everyone, and it probably isn't a must-do on your first visit to Paris. It's a branch of the Louvre with fascinating functional art – furniture, jewelry, toys. I wrote about it for the Ladue News and you can

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  • New York: Untitled

    What's more important? New York's  Whitney Museum Of American Art has moved to a new Renzo Piano building in the Meatpacking District or Danny Meyer has completely rebooted his restaurant, called Untitled, at the Whitney?  Discriminating eaters know it's the latter, of course. I visited both of them last month, and I wrote about the restaurant

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  • Missouri Chocolate Shows Off

    St. Louis in New York: All kinds of local connections. I had lunch at Danny Meyer's new spot, Untitled. Coffee with Joan Lipkin, to find Jessica Hentoff two tables away. And then at the Fancy Food Show, two-plus football fields full of interesting things to eat and drink, here's what I saw, tasted and chatted

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  • Mezzrow

     Years ago, when I was visiting New York, I would slip into a saloon called Bradley's on University Place in Greenwich Village. All I knew was that it was a bar with a music schedule. It took me a while to realize it was famous as a hangout for serious jazz musicians and that the

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  • Flushing, Queens: A Chinese Chowzter Adventure

     In New York last week, lots of walking, a fair amount of slush, and, as always, chasing down good food (once I replaced snow boots that peeled like a third-degree sunburn). Several good things to report, but the most remarkable came from a trek to the end of the 7 train, the (subway/elevated) line that

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  • New Orleans: Brennan’s

    The best news of the flying trip to New Orleans is that one of the great restaurants is back with a bang. Brennan's on Royal Street, the big pink house across from the Supreme Court Building, has reopened. Closed for several years, the result of a family feud that could make the plot for a

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  • Bayeux

     If you're interested in more about Normandy than the D-Day assault, you can't do much better than stay in Bayeux. It's a small, walkable town on the train line from Paris to Cherbourg, and it was spared almost completely during the Allied landing and German defense, unlike, say, Caen. There's a lot more to it

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  • New Orleans: Willie Mae’s Scotch House

    Some food stops are non-negotiable. Vivoli for gelato in Florence. McClard's for barbecue in Hot Springs. This last weekend in New Orleans, I had to break one of my rules, though. I've visited The City That Care Forgot more than a dozen times, and I never NOT went to Cafe du Monde for beignets and

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  • Paris 2014 Part 2

    So how good are the fancier restaurants in Paris? We've already looked at some spots that did cuisine bourgeoise, and my pals and I were more than happy with them. But this trip called for a few visits to restaurants with more upscale ideas, and the pursuit was mostly a worthwhile one. The first stop

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  • Kansas City: Brunch at Cafe Sebastienne

      A fast run to Kansas City recently brought me one of the best brunches I've had in a while on the recommendation of an old pal with whom I've shared many a meal over the decades. It was at Cafe Sebastienne in the Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art, a few blocks north of the

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