On The Road

  • Martha’s Vineyard Week, Part 1: The Black Dog

    Visiting The Black Dog on Martha’s Vineyard has become something of a cliché now that it’s changed hands, and its logo is seen on t-shirts and tote bags from coast to coast. You can’t go more than a couple of blocks in any town on the island without running into one of the outlets for

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  • Philadelphia Week, Part 3: Zahav

      Despite its location in the very oldest part of Philadelphia, or perhaps because of it, Zahav isn't easy to locate on many maps. Persevere. It's worth it. Atop Society Hill, on the first floor of an apartment building, the Israeli restaurant is like nothing we've seen before. Elegant and cool-feeling, one large room and

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  • Philadelphia Week, Part 2

    It was a happy coincidence that our hotel in Philadelphia was only a block away from Han Dynasty. But when the desk clerk, who’d inquired about our dining destination, had never heard of it, we did have a brief pause before we set out. The restaurant, in a downtown storefront only a couple of blocks

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  • Philadelphia Week: Part 1

    Philadelphia is known for cheesesteaks, and we like them a lot. But looking for something different on a recent visit, we went for another classic Philly sandwich, well known to locals but pretty much a secret beyond the Schuylkill River DiNic's roast pork, sharp provolone cheese and broccoli raab are this hat trick, although this

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  • I-70 Eats: Richmond, IN

    Returning home from a driving trip East, we stopped for lunch in Richmond, IN, just this side of the Ohio line. On the ground floor of a rehabbed factory, brick walls showing the patina of age, Ghyslain Maurais, a Quebecois chef who married an Indiana girl, is serving lunch (and dinner Friday and Saturday) and

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  • I-70 Eats: Columbus, OH

    Driving east from St. Louis on I-70, Columbus, Ohio, makes a mid-afternoon stop for us, or an overnight if we’re running late. But we recently found a reason to violate all rules of sensible eating at Jeni’s, a short, easy detour from the interstate and a place we won’t pass up ever again. Ice cream

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  • New York, 2009

    There’s nothing quite like New York during the holidays–especially if a visitor avoids a blizzard, as we did. And even in a blizzard, Joe is quick to point out, Manhattan building superintendents shovel sidewalks faster than you’d think. Still, there’s serious slush; if you go during the winter, plan on waterproof boots. We like to

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  • Eleven Madison Park, New York

    Madison Square park is about 15 blocks from Madison Square Garden, the sports arena/convention hall on top of what is still called, with complete lack of logic, Penn Station, though the Penn Central railroad line has gone the way of dial phones. The park is formed where Broadway crosses Fifth Avenue, and at one corner,

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  • New Orleans: Galatoire’s

    Galatoire's, one of New Orleans' grand dames of the restaurant world, is still on Bourbon Street, an incongruous setting that's so typical of the French Quarter, where an inconspicuous, even shabby, door can open into an apartment of astonishing luxury. Friday lunch there is a local tradition, with many of the natives, particularly the women,

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  • New Orleans: The Old Coffee Pot

      Like many cities where leisure is an art, New Orleans is capable of lifting breakfast to a higher standard. Enough so, in fact, that we think it wasteful to stay at a place that includes breakfast in the price of a room. Coffee, maybe, before setting foot on the pavement, but to forego the

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