Brunch at Brasserie by Niche seems to be the hottest Sunday ticket in town. We didn’t realize that until we arrived the other day — with reservation — to discover the joint jumping, every table in use and hungry diners waiting. We always advise people to make reservations; it feels funny when there are only three other tables occupied, but it’s a lot funnier to arrive with out-of-town visitors and discover a full restaurant.
So reserve or hope for a lucky break. Interestingly, we’ve discovered that as the day advances, the crowd gets younger. More social activity the previous night, we assume. Or perhaps the newly painted exterior, a brighter red than ever, causes severe pain in the morning sunlight. Once a table has secured, and perhaps some hair of the dog ordered, the next challenge is deciding what to eat.
This is a first-rate, intelligent menu, hovering precisely in the spot between breakfast and lunch. A burger and housemade granola can appear, or onion soup and a hazelnut waffle. Our single quibble is that the grapefruit brulee really shouldn’t be considered a side dish. It’s a segmented half red grapefruit showered with sugar and run under a broiler to harden and then brown, and it cannot be properly enjoyed when it arrives simultaneously with the quiche or eggs Benedict. It’s a first course. The kitchen was very busy (“slammed” is the technical term) and we were not surprised it took a while for our order to arrive. But bring that grapefruit first, please.
Eggs “en cocotte” says the menu; what arrives is a small, hot skillet containing creamy spinach seasoned with tasty lardons of good bacon, eggs broken over that base and quickly baked, and a couple of new potatoes that had been crushed slightly and then fried to crispness The combination of flavors was swell, the eggs perfectly cooked and the crunch of the potatoes a fine contrast to the creaminess of the spinach and eggs.
Brioche french toast turns out to be thick slices of what’s basically a dense bread pudding. A generous serving of marvelous lemon curd crowns them, making the small container of (real) maple syrup almost unnecessary. An excellent combination, to be sure, and some completely crisp thick bacon alongside is a fine escort.
Mimosas and bloody Marys up front, of course, but also a drink called a corpse reviver. This was all over drink menus on our recent trip to New York, and we sampled the gin/Lillet Blanc, Cointreau and lemon juice drink. Serious alcohol, beautifully cold, slightly bitter, it was indeed a drink to get the attention of the hung over. We noted several of them here and there around the dining room.
And some dessert. Chocolate mousse pairs up with a couple of hazelnut shortbread cookies, the mousse leaning toward milk chocolate in color, but darker in flavor. A scoop of brandy ice cream charms, but might be even more enchanting topped with a shot of espresso to create a French affogato.
And then there is the isle flotante, or floating island. The English name always sounds a little stodgy, but never fear; this was originally a French dessert, and the Brasserie’s is beautifully delicate. A cloud of meringue sits on a puddle of custard sauce flecked with vanilla bean seeds. The whole is lightly drizzled with a little caramel, just a thin, glittering thread here and there. Very light, a first-rate choice after a heavy meal.
We spent close to two hours at brunch. As we noted, the kitchen was very busy. But good brunch is designed as a leisurely meal and should be handled that way. Good coffee, a drink, a chance to chat and to relax, building strength for the week ahead. Besides, there always will be another football game. A fine meal with attentive service, and first-rate people watching, including several tables of other restaurateurs and their families enjoying the role of customers for a change.
Brasserie by Niche
4580 Laclede Ave.
314-454-0600
Brunch Sun.
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Good
Brunch Entrees: $6-$14
