We’re always happy to find a family restaurant that’s flourishing, and Brazie’s seems to be a good example, apparently thriving since moving to a new location at the corner of Watson and Arsenal. If it isn’t the hole-in-the-wall, budget-priced spot it used to be, blame popularity and the rising price of ingredients. The large, angular dining room offers plenty of space between tables, and there’s a television in the bar if someone needs to keep an eye on the baseball game. Servers seem to know the menu well and explain it with enthusiasm. But the first-course star was the calamari. Instead of arriving as deep-fried tentacles and rings, the squid tasted as if it had received a fast saute, followed by a bath in a warm vinaigrette, studded with sliced mushrooms and more red pepper strips. The calamari was sweet and tender, the sauce good enough for a diner to mop the dish clean with a little bread. As a litany of new bread styles are seen in St. Louis, there are establishments — mainly on the Hill and environs — who continue to use old-fashioned white with a seeded crust, the kind Joe first heard described as a Vienna loaf a half-century ago in Brooklyn. Speaking of sauce, it pays to investigate the pasta, of course. Pasta diablo was fettucine, definitely and happily al dente, with a red seafood sauce, a few clams and mussels in the shell, several large shrimp and a good-sized handful of crab. Spicy, as the name would indicate, with a contrasting undertone of sweetness that marks many red sauces, the dish displayed the flavors that produce a little grunt of pleasure at every bite. Pancetta pasta showcased penne with diced pancetta, fried to crisp it up a bit, and, for more texture, some toasted pine nuts. This tomato sauce seemed to lack the the sweetness, but that might have been our imagination since a side of pasta with meat sauce displayed a hint of sweet during dinner, but hardly any when we finished the leftovers the next day. Veal spedini was wrapped around a crabmeat stuffing, beautifully seasoned, quite delicate, although we didn’t detect any of the lemon and garlic topping the menu promised. There were, however, definite notes of both in the dish itself, perhaps from the breading or stuffing. Chicken Florentine topped the boneless breast of chicken with fresh spinach that was lightly cooked and finished off with a round of provel cheese which — strange word-play here — might actually make it chicken Florelouis. And a simple veal cutlet was breaded and fried with good results, the breading ungreasy, the veal flavorful and hammered into tenderness, the dish accompanied by four particularly handsome asparagus. The dessert of choice is the cassata cake, creamy and rich, with a very light note of amaretto and the sort of sauce we always knew as Gold Brick on top. Its delight lies in the fact that the chocolate hardens when it hits something cold. It’s a nice textural contrast as well as another layer of flavor. The same sauce finishes ice cream with raspberry sauce, another good combination. The modest wine list has some pleasant, reasonably priced offerings. Brazie’s is another prime example of why St. Louis diners should have no need for chain Italian restaurants. Brazie’s Ristorante 3073 Watson Rd. 314-481-5464 Lunch Tues.-Fri., Dinner nightly Credit cards: All major Wheelchair access: Good Smoking: Yes Entrees: $9-$26
Our single complaint with first courses is the sweet house salad dressing. We have nothing against sweet, or those who want it, but we prefer a drier style (using wine talk) and would like to see a choice of styles. Other than that, it’s full speed ahead. A Sicilian salad of tomatoes, red onion, green olives, capers and anchovies offered better-than-average off-season tomatoes, and generous amounts of all the trimmings. Cheese garlic bread was extremely garlicky, with a thin slice of tomato almost turning it into a bruschetta. Shrimp Brazie combined four fried shrimp in a batter so light as to be almost tempura, with a tasty white sauce showing the tart, salty notes of large capers, and some roasted red pepper strips. Brazie’s uses the large capers in many dishes, always with a generous hand that brings delight to those whose palates appreciate the marinated berries.
Comments
4 responses
This is the worst restaurant ever. We were one of the first to arrive, and it took over 10 minutes for anyone to take our drink order. Then it took another 1/2 hour for them to come and take our order. The waiter we had acted like he had been on another planet. The food was terrible. If you want a true italian restaurant to go to go across the street to lorusso’s cucina. They know how to take care of their customers and cook true italian food.
Ms Nancy- Certainly if you are going to slam and advise peopole to not patronize a restaurant you should explain what you thought was so terrible about the food. Untimely service can be excusable, poor food isn’t.
I’ve been going to Brazie’s for over 20 years and have yet to have a single dish that wasn’t perfectly prepared. Staff is always attentive. Wine list is small, but reasonably priced. Their beef dishes are excellent, and the quality of the fillet is always top notch. The pastas are perfectly prepared as well, with both red and cream sauces nicely done. One of our favorites
I have been a patron of Brazies for many years. At their current and previous location. Not once have I ever been disappointed in the food or service. I have recommended them countless times. And no matter what else I order I make sure I have some Tomato Florentine soup. It is outstanding. I can’t dine in today so I just ordered my birthday lunch from Brazies. Fettuccine Diablo, Salad and Tomato Florentine. All my favorites from Brazies. And if you have the opportunity to me him Brazie is a pleasure to know.