Silly, we suppose, but we're always interested when we see the re-use of fast food spots. Boodles BBQ (CQ) is in what appears to be an old Wendy's. That means there's plenty of room to stand back, look up at the menu board and ponder the options. More room, too, for mobility assistance devices like wheelchairs.
Like an increasing number of 'que houses these days, there's turkey as well as chicken on the menu. Plenty of options, too, for combination plates and a somewhat wider range of sides. All that contributes to the pondering, but in the end, we stuck to the traditional stuff, ribs, brisket and pulled pork.
The pulled pork sandwich sat on a properly toasted bun, a touch of attentiveness we appreciate more on cold nights, when a dish meant to be served hot should be more than merely warmish. The pork was tender and moist but not piggish enough in its flavor. And it didn't seem very smoky, either. Slices of beef brisket had the desirable red edges, and their texture was just right, neither tough nor crumbly. Again, reasonably moist. and again, not smoky enough. Pork ribs certainly hit the pig notes the right way, with good flavor. We're not so keen on ribs whose meat falls off the bone; it hints at some kind of moist heat. These were moving in that direction, but stopped short, and they, too, were only mildly smoky.
Three sauces, a sweet tomato, a mildly spicy tomato and a mustardy Carolina-style. Nothing incendiary in the squeeze bottles, but there was a pleasing infusion of mustard to make the Carolina stand out.
Among the sides, we skipped the corn — the charm of deep-fried corn has always escaped us, so we hit the baked beans, quite good, with a molasses note. Coleslaw wears a creamy dressing and was above average, although amazingly cold.
And then there were the picnic potatoes. Sometimes known as funeral potatoes, they're cubed cooked potatoes in a cheese sauce, and we certainly understand not putting "funeral potatoes" on a menu. But don't worry about the name. These are creamy, cheesy and utterly irresistible; one might describe them as pure Paula Deen, but they're hot and seductive.
Pleasant young employees in a spanking-clean setting earnestly inquired about our satisfaction and needs. If only they could have made the barbeque smokier….
Boodles BBQ
10024 Gravois Rd.
314-631-0000
Lunch & Dinner daily
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Good
Smoking: No
Entrees: $7-$21