Big Sky Cafe, tucked away off big Bend in Webster Groves, has long been a staple for pre-theater dining. The cozy-feeling former residence, now expanded, with its amiably wacky decor, a hallmark of Tim Mallett's Great Restaurants group, now gives us Sunday brunch, a nice stop before a Sunday matinee, or any other activity that's on tap for you.
If there's sufficient warmth, there are tables outside, but what surely must have been a sun porch on the front of the building catches a lot of morning light. (It's always nice when a brunch restaurant has a balance between sunny for the perky folks and darker for those unfortunates who were overserved the previous night.)
This is a really tempting menu, the sort that causes waiters' repeated visits, asking, "Any decisions yet?" And while the small plate options are tempting, like the salmon roll-ups, the main course options are generously served. There are three vegetarian offerings on the mains, plus one with removable bacon, and several gluten-free choices, too.
While the grilled portobello sandwich giggled and waved to us, we passed this time, and opted for other things. Like the 3-egg omelet with cheddar from Milton, Iowa, and the local Geisert Farms' sausage, alongside a tumble of diced potatoes that had been lightly fried and served with sweet pepper and onion, plus a biscuit, just the kind of elevated granny-food that Big Sky likes to do. And then there were the pancakes. Blueberry pancakes, with berries both in and on the 'cakes, huge, both in diameter and height, the sort of fluffy pancakes that confuse and delight Europeans for whom the word evokes what we would call crepes. The word "cake" is more than appropriate here. The bacon alongside, the solitary shortcoming, was good-quality, thick cut, but limp and not well-drained. (Speaking of Europe, the cooking was to the English style of bacon, where they consider Yanks to be burning their bacon.)
Do consider the house version of eggs Benedict, based on a biscuit and topped with Scottish salmon, poached eggs and a hollandaise seasoned with local horseradish. This is a combination coming dangerously close to divine – the idea of horseradish in a hollandaise is a new one to me, but nothing short of seductive,. Nicely poached eggs, too, all topped with some watercress and alongside some of the aforementioned breakfast potatoes.
A grace note is the availability of mini-versions of their desserts, just the thing for folks who want a touch of something sweet after, say, the grilled mozzarella and tomato sandwich on rye. The French toast bread pudding sounded interesting, the two dishes being clearly first cousins. The triangle of bread pudding was soft, fluffy, a little crisp around the edges and not too sweet, a fine finish to the meal.
Excellent service, nearly always a given at the Tim Mallett restaurants, and coffee to match. Off to the matinee, right?
Big Sky Cafe
47 S. Old Orchard Ave., Webster Groves
314-962-5757
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Side entrance
Smoking: No
Entrees: $10-$14