Of all the Julia Child books, my favorite is my first, From Julia Child’s Kitchen. It was one of the first books that persuaded me that I could cook more than the small-town-Middle- America food I’d been dishing up until then. It became one of the books I sent with my daughter when she left home, so ingrained had it become to our way of eating.
And the first thing I made from it was the very first recipe in the book. Potage Parmentier, or potato soup, became one of the joys of our lives. I did it very simply, with onions instead of leeks because of budgetary constraints, and that’s the way I still do it. I’ve usually used red potatoes, which Julia refers to as "boiling" potatoes, quotation marks hers. (The book predates Yukon Golds and other species-specific potatoes.) Baking potatoes will work, and lend themselves to being pureed, as they want to fall apart. It’s completely vegetarian, and there’s not much dairy in it, either, if you do the no-milk-just-a-little-cream version.
You may puree this after it’s cooked, but it’s equally nice if the onions and potatoes are diced politely and left that way. The hot-versus-cold thing also is moot; pureed, it’s a nice version of vichyssoise on a hot summer day, although you may want it a little thinner, and be sure to check the seasoning. Cold tends to dull flavors.
But right now, a steaming bowl of this sounds really good. I may make some for supper tonight; I know I have all the ingredients at hand.
This is not verbatim; I’ve shortened it and just given how I do it.
Potato Soup
3 Tbs. butter
3 c. chopped onions
3 Tbs. flour
4-6 c. hot water (8 cups if you skip the milk below)
1 Tbs. salt
pepper to taste (ground over the bowl after it’s served is my preference)
4 c. (about 1 1/2 pounds) potatoes that have been peeled ,and chopped or diced
2 c. milk (1/2% fat is fine), optional
1/2 c. heavy cream
In a large, heavy-bottomed pan, melt the butter over moderate heat. When it’s hot, stir in the onions, cover the pan and cook slowly for 5 minutes without browning. Then blend in the flour and stir over moderate heat for 2 minutes to cook the flour without browning it, either.
Remove from the heat, let cool a moment and gradually beat in a cup or so of the water. Blend thoroughly with the flour and onions, then stir in the rest of the water. Add the potatoes and salt. Bring to a boil and simmer, partially covered, for about 40 minutes, until vegetables are thoroughly tender.
If you want to puree it, this is the time to do so; it’s easier if it’s cooled some. You may even stop and refrigerate the soup at this point, to finish making just before serving.
Stir in the milk if you’re using it, bring it to the simmer, and add the cream. Taste a spoonful and see if it needs more salt.
Makes about 8 cups, serving 6-8.
-Ann