Just back from a visit to New Orleans, and while there are some longer restaurant reviews to offer you in the coming days. here are a few random notes to kick things off.
— For instance, that shortage of pecans that hit the news in late November clearly has had repercussions down there. Praline prices have shot up, and a single praline is now priced around what you'd pay for a single piece of a designer chocolate. On some level, this at least gives the praline the respect it deserves, but it's still a bummer and someone who was going to get a small box of them is instead going to get…well, let's just say something else.
The best ones we tried were at what seems to be the mothership of Magnolia Praline Company in the 200 block of Royal. Large and airy and smelling of brown sugar and butter, freshly made bits of the candy are set out for tasting, Plenty of other things to buy, all food-related, and boxed pralines to buy or ship. But if you're eating them now, pay a little more and get the freshly made ones, which have no preservatives. Other, smaller, outposts of them bearing the red logo elsewhere in the French Quarter, but this is the one you want. Warning: The website is no help at all.
— There are two spots named Maspero's in the Quarter. The one on Decatur very near Jackson Square, which is Cafe Maspero, happened to be a spot my pal and I hit for a quick pick-me-up between a late breakfast and an early dinner. Very inexpensive, cash only, full of tourists. But a stunning take on red beans and rice, the best I've ever had, with a wonderful depth and nuance that left me grunting with every bite. My buddy's jambalaya was good enough, but it was the red beans that thrilled. And hard to believe, but true: They serve a $1 frozen strawberry margarita. (Maybe 4 ounces.) 610 Decatur Street, lunch and dinner daily.
— Frequent visitors know of the long-standing rivalry between the two oyster houses on Iberville Street, Felix's and the Acme. This visit, the Acme had long lines waiting on the sidewalk ("Is there a Groupon for them?" asked my New Yorker pal) and Felix's sported empty tables. We went to Felix's. Good enough half-shells, although be reminded these are Gulf oysters, milder than their cold-water cousins, a generously served crab salad and their oysters Bienville. For the past decades they've had my patronage, the Bienvilles were topped with cheese. No more. This is closer to what cookbooks say is a classic Bienville, cream sauce with pieces of shrimp and mushroom and a little grated hard cheese sprinkled on top before running them under the grill. Sorry. Not nearly as good, classic or not. But stay tuned for another option just up the street I'll talk about later this week. 739 Iberville Street, lunch and dinner daily.
–If you're looking for a quiet place for a drink in the Quarter - I can't vouch for the current status of the food – the perfect spot is the Napoleon House. Classical music on the overhead, skilled bartenders and a spot that's been there forever, and looks it. The Impastato family is in its hundredth year of ownership. 500 Chartres Street, closed Sundays.
— And a few non-food but significant notes: The dear old St. Charles Avenue streetcar currently ends at Napoleon Street while tracks are being repaired. This means you can get to the Garden District, but if you want to toddle on uptown to Loyola or Tulane or the Camellia Grill, there's a bus that completes the route. Should be going on like this through much of 2014.
— Many more street musicians than I ever remember seeing in the Quarter and every one or group I heard was at least competent and most remarkably good. They're happy to have an audience and no one hassles onlookers for donations. Some jazz among the music, and how good it is to see young musicians wailing away at that American art form.
Stay tuned for casual dining at Antoine's, the aforementioned seafood spot, lunch at Commander's Palace and a visit to Upperline Restaurant!