Mutterings about parking for events at the Peabody Opera House, especially when there's something on at the Scottrade Center now may have a solution, at least if you want dinner, or at least heavy apps and a drink, beforehand. Eric Brenner, whom many of us remember from Moxy in the Central West End, brings us Alumni Saint Louis. And it's in easy walking distance of the Peab. In the Park Pacific building, formerly the Missouri Pacific building, it's three rooms on the southwest corner, lots of light, and photomurals that should keep any local trivia buffs occupied until after-dinner drinks.
The menu has plenty of references to local food traditions, not surprisingly. Yes, there's toasted ravioli, but more interesting to those with a sense of history is the Mayfair salad. Now, let it be known that the Mayfair Hotel didn't serve it with avocado, bacon and corn relish. But avocado seemed like a reasonable addition, bacon is a versatile guest star, and…well, who knew about what corn would do? As it turned out, it seemed to be more for eye appeal than a definitive lift in the flavor, but this is absolutely the Mayfair dressing I remember, much less attention given to celery than in some re-creations, a good balance, and the greens not overdressed. It's a good example of what anchovies can add to a recipe – they're a primary component of the dressing. A delightful dish.
Tomato soup folks will head for the house version, slightly nubbly with bits of tomato, and served with a wedge of grilled cheese sandwich alongside. (The cup of soup had a quarter sandwich.) It's very tomato-ey, sharp with acidity that can be taken for saltiness, but the grilled cheese offsets that nicely – and there is plenty of cheese, voluptuously oozing out from the sides of the bread.
Speaking of sandwiches, how many folks remember the prosperity sandwich? Related, I'm told, to the hot brown of Louisville, it's an open-faced sandwich layering turkey and ham with bacon and topped with a cheese sauce. (The hot brown is one of the rewards for driving through Louisville around lunch time.) This version doesn't make it – just a drizzle of cheese sauce, which is what should make these sandwiches worthwhile, the turkey looking mass-produced, ditto the ham, and the bacon limp. But the zucchini fries one of the options alongside the sandwiches, lightly coated with crunchy panko breadcrumbs, were a winner, and instead of ketchup for dipping, there was a good marinara sauce.
More sandwiches and burgers than formal main courses, but a sauteed grouper, not overcooked, was bedded on a champagne risotto, quite respectable, some sauteed baby spinach cuddling up, and a drool of a slightly sweet pesto sauce bordering half the plate. Fresh tomato relish, a Mediterranean take on pico de gallo topped the fish, and the whole combination worked well.
There is, of course, gooey butter cake on the dessert menu, here a thin version with blueberries in it, and topped with a half-cannoli filled with lemon cream. The GBC was adequate, but the cannoli, freshly filled, crunchy-creamy-tart, was divine. Did you know that 7-Up was originally a St. Louis company? That leads the menu to 7-Up tart, meaning lemon and lime. Brenner's take is much like key lime pie, a rich, creamy layer of filling, here on a saltine cracker crust to provide some contrast. Like the graham cracker crust often found under the key lime tart, it quickly becomes soggy, but the light saltiness is a good addition.
Lots of action in the bar some nights, but the dining room is quiet enough for conversation. Servers are pleasant and attentive, and special kudos to the elf who scrubs out the coffee pot – after-dinner coffee was excellent. And pay attention to the shape of the cream pitcher.
And about that parking? There's parking in the building, and they validate for two hours. After that, it's $3 an hour, still cheaper than the lots on the south side of Peabody/Scottrade.Or come early, bring quarters, and remember the meters only need time until 7 p.m.
Alumni Saint Louis
200 N. 13th Street
314-241-5888
Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair Access: Good
Smoking: No
Sandwiches and Entrees: $8-$22