As the weather turns chilly, with brisk winds and early nightfall, the fan of red wines grows happy. We’re in a time of year when there is a surfeit of product, and when stews and roasts, and hearty soups, are favored fare. And then there’s Thanksgiving, only 10 days away, when there are plenty of good red wines to accompany the turkey. Yes, red, a position I’ll defend a little later.
Thanksgiving is pretty big at our house, and I think the best way to start a festive meal, or any especially festive occasion, is with sparkling wine. Whether is’s true Champagne, from the region in northeastern France, close to Burgundy, or a sparkling wine from anywhere else in the world, a taste of the bubbly is always right. One can spend almost any amount for sparkling wine and find good ones. Some of the Missouri producers, like Stone Hill and Mount Pleasant, just to name a couple, do good work at a moderate price.
The California offspring of the French producers like Domaine Chandon, Roederer and Mumm know the business and produce fine sparkling wine. It’s slightly different from the French versions because the grapes and the other influences on the terroir are different, and I think the French winemakers make even their dry sparklers a little sweet for the American market. Still, the wine is excellent.
Freixenet, from Spain, is a good value, too, as are the spumantes from Italy, though they’re a little on the sweet side, too.
And when it comes to buying wine, either for a celebration or just to accompany a meal or a conversation, get friendly with your wine merchant. Tell him what your budget is, and tell him how sweet or dry you want the wine. Then trust him. Remember that he wants your business next time, too.
When the turkey hits the table, I like Burgundy (Pinot Noir), or Gamay or Beaujolais. Syrah can work, too. I don’t think white wines can stand up to the stronger flavors of turkey, especially the dark meat and more especially if the dressing is spicy. The reds above are lighter than Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Zinfandel, and their flavors mingle well with the turkey.
Rodney Strong, a long-time Sonoma County producer, has an ‘04 Pinot Noir ($19) from the Russian River Valley that is ideal, with hints of cherry in the flavor, good balance and a long finish. Martin Ray, another Sonoma winemaker with a fine reputation, also has a 2004 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($40) that is outstanding, even if a little on the higher end of the economic scale. The Monterey region is home of Hahn Vineyards, whose ‘04 Pinot Noir ($14) is a little lighter, but with excellent flavor. Hahn’s ‘04 Cabernet Franc ($14) and Syrah ($20) will work with turkey, too, especially the latter, an outstanding wine.
In terms of Syrah, some California winemakers are working with the grape and having real success in terms of balance and flavor, rich and with berries on the palate, but a good combination at the Thanksgiving meal. Zaca Mesa has a brilliant ‘02 ($20), from the Santa Ynez Valley of Santa Barbara County; it is well-aged and perfectly balanced, with a rich feel in the mouth, big fruit and a long finish. Gallo brings a pair of Syrahs to the table, an ‘03 from the Central Coast wearing the Bridlewood label ($19), and an ‘03 Reserve from Sonoma County that is a real bargain at $13 and a wine with surprisingly good richness and aroma.
–Joe