Last week, I started this wine column with a reference to red wines, to rich and hearty red wines. And then I realized that Thanksgiving was only a week away, and I shifted gears. And to the surprise of no one who knows me well, I never got unshifted and back to my original topic.
So, for a little Thanksgiving Day reading and planning, while settling down after much turkey and conversation, here’s a recent list of red wines I’ve sampled. Why are they all recommended, you may ask. Don’t you drink any wine that isn’t very good, you also may ask.
I sample a lot of wine that isn’t very good, but I don’t see any reason to ask a reader to keep track of which wines not to buy, as well as which wines to buy. So I write about wine I like, whether expensive or of great economic benefit (and do I have a bargain for you at the bottom of this screed), and ignore the remainder. The order is random.
Duckhorn 2002 Napa Valley Merlot ($85): Yes, it’s expensive, but Dan Duckhorn makes great wines and every now and then one must splurge, maybe to celebrate an event, maybe just for the heck of it. Dark and plummy, with the soft richness that makes Merlot popular but with a backbone that shows strength and a long life, this is an elegant wine in every respect.
J. Lohr 2003 Paso Robles Merlot ($15): Just a shade below the Duckhorn on my tasting scale, the Lohr wines, from the Central Coast, display a crispness in the finish that contrasts well with the Merlot softness. Black cherry along the way, and a rich aroma.
Ballentine Vineyards 2003 Napa Petite Verdot ($38): Here’s a winner from a grape that’s rarely used to make 95 percent of a wine, as this is, with 5 percent Cabernet Sauvignon added to make it a bit lighter. Petite Verdot is primarily a blending grape, used to add body and power to lighter wines. But this bottling is a superb wine, filled with deep plum flavors but always with the grape riding through. A rich and delicious wine.
Ballentine Vineyards 2004 Napa Old Vines Zinfandel ($22): Another blockbuster winner with plenty of fruit and the rich, woodsy taste of Zinfandel, a winning wine with any red meat, and some strong fish (tuna, perhaps, or mackerel). There’s a hint of tobacco in the aroma and a strong hint of chocolate on the tongue. A delicious wine.
Veramonte 2004 Reserve Merlot ($10): A good Chilean winemaker and a tasty offering at a very good price. Nice balance, a touch lighter than some of the other merlots discussed here, but a winner with pasta that wears a hearty sauce.
Clos du Val 2003 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($30): Wine that spends 17 months in French oak will show a lot of tannin, but this ‘03 has come through that part of the aging process with flying colors. Rich, with blackberries on the palate and still a hint of that tannin gives the wine strength, character and a long life.
Columbia Winery 2000 Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon ($25): Surprisingly soft for a Cab, the Pacific Northwest grapes offer lovely balance on the palate and in the finish. Should be drunk in the next year or two while its shiny favors are at their peak.
Paraduxx 2003 Napa Red Wine ($45): Another Duckhorn offering, this is a charming blend of Zinfandel (63 percent), Cabernet Sauvignon (33), Merlot (2) and Cabernet Franc (2). The result is a wine that warms the palate and the tummy. Exquisite balance, deep berries in the mouth and a lengthy finish that provides an extra benefit. A winner.
Dry Creek Vineyards 2002 Red Meritage ($50): A delightful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (49 percent), Merlot (44), Petite Verdot (3) and Cabernet Franc (3) brings out the flavors that are a lot like the fine wines of Bordeaux. The Meritage designation goes on a wine that uses Bordeaux grapes in varying quantities, a wine that the winemaker considers an outstanding example of his art. This is a wine to accompany anything and to show the richness of outstanding red wine.
Bucklin Vineyard 2003 Sonoma Zinfandel ($30): Another glorious Zinfandel, though I admit to being a real fan of the wines from the most American of grapes, even if it has an Italian heritage. Good tannin in this wine, beginning to recede and with lots of berry flavor and a long finish. Superior.
Bridlewood Winery 2004 Central Coast Arabesque ($24): Another member of the Gallo family, Bridlewood contributes a brilliant blend of five different grapes. It’s a little lighter than some of the wine discussed here because of the presence of Grenache (40 percent), but the addition of Mouvedre (27), Cinsault (18), Syrah (11) and Viognier (4) give it body and a large amount of fruit, with the Viognier, a white grape, lightening it a little. Tasty, well-balanced and a good wine with dinner.
Gallo Family Twin Valley California Moscato ($5): The price is hard to believe, but the value is immense. A blend of several vintages, there is peach and melon and honey in the flavor, a pleasing sweetness in the aroma and a price that will make the wallet sing. A delightful dessert wine, fine with cheese.
-Joe