Found: Another excellent Mark Bittman recipe. Bittman, who writes for the New York Times, is always a guy to watch for interesting food ideas and execution, and here’s something that is easy and quick, provided you’ve done your shopping.
If you’ve never cooked squid, here are some things to remember: It cooks very quickly, and overcooking is what makes it rubber-band-like. Tentacles cook more quickly than the bodies, which are usually cut into those rings you see. I bought frozen squid, which had been cleaned and skinned, at Bob’s Seafood, and it worked well after I sliced the bodies myself. The tentacles were already separated from the bodies, a necessary step in cleaning; I cut each set in two pieces, just to make for easier eating, but that’s optional. Just as the squid becomes opaque, taste a piece; it should be tender; if it is, now is the time to add the garlic.
Freshly ground pepper is much preferred, but if the pepper in a can is all you have, so be it. Still, a pepper grinder always is a worthwhile purchase for a kitchen. When it comes to fish sauce, I like Squid brand. A California chef told me years ago it was the best one generally available, and I’ve always been happy. I buy it at Jay Foods or Global Market, and, yes, that’s a large bottle, but the cost is very reasonable and it keeps for months in the fridge. Salt crystals will form, but that’s not a sign it’s spoiled. As to the cilantro, or coriander leaves–I’ve finally realized that the way to keep them, and parsley, fresh is to stand them in a heavy mug of water, put a plastic bag over them but leave it loose at the bottom, and put it into the refrigerator. Parsley and cilantro can go in together without harm. This is a lot better than the vegetable drawer at the bottom of the refrigerator. I change the water about once a week, and have had things last up to 3 weeks.
Because this is a stir-fry, do your chopping before turning on the heat; measure everything out and have it right next to the stove.
This is a dish made to go with rice, and Bittman says that the rice should be done before you add the squid to the pan. Rice cookers are getting cheaper and cheaper, and for many people are a worthwhile investment. The cheapest aren’t perfect, but they beat having to watch the time and move quickly, because they hold the rice and keep it warm after it’s done.
2 Tbs. oil (not olive – think corn or maybe peanut)
1 1/2
lbs. squid, cleaned and cut into rings, juices drained off
1 – 2 Tbs. chopped garlic
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, more to taste
2 Tbs. fish sauce, more to taste
salt, if necessary (It probably won’t be.)
Chopped fresh cilantro for garnish, optional
Heat a large skillet or wok over high heat. When the skillet is hot, add the oil and swirl to cover the bottom of the pan. It may begin to smoke; move quickly and add the squid. Cook, stirring frequently, just until it becomes opaque. This may take from 30 to 90 seconds, depending on your stove.
Taste. If it’s ready, add garlic and stir. Add the black pepper, give it another stir. Stir in the fish sauce, cook another 10 seconds and taste. If it needs more sauce and some salt, add that.
Garnish with cilantro, if using, and serve. Serves 3.
-Ann