Every now and then, bureaucrats wise up and realize they’ve made a mistake. On rare occasions, like now, they retract what they’ve done and allow things to proceed as they always have, properly and in an orderly manner.
The European Agriculture Commission did that the other day, stepping back from a proposal that would have permitted winemakers to make rose by merely mixing red and white wines. Red + White = Rose. Right?
Wrong.
For hundreds of years, European winemakers (primarily French) made rose wine from red grapes, picking and pressing in a traditional manner, but then removing the grape skins after a shorter-than-usual time. Since practically all grape juice is clear, regardless of the color of the skin, allowing skin contact with juice colors the juice (and the wine). More contact, deeper color and vice versa.
Some years ago, during the popularity of "blush wines," some American winemakers, not bothered by centuries of tradition, mixed red wine and white wine to create the noxious stuff. Seeing easy profits ahead, some European winemakers decided to play copycat, and the European Union backed the change. But traditional winemakers, mostly in France, protested vigorously that this routine would be a shame and a disgrace, in addition to harming the quality of rose wines.
Mariann Fischer Boel, the European agriculture commissioner, heard the protest and abandoned the proposed changes. "It’s become clear over recent weeks," she said, "that a majority in our wine sector believe that ending the ban on blending could undermine the image of traditional rose. "
Voila! And just in time for the rose season!
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BARGAINS FROM ITALY: A couple of small Italian producers displayed their wares at a recent tasting under the auspices of A. Bommarito Wines, with Giampaolo Motta showing off a brilliant Tuscan blend from La Massa in a Bordeaux style, and Giovanni Pasquero Elia providing some excellent Piemontese wines from the family’s Paitin estate near Neive. The property has cellars dating to 1480 and has been in the family since 1796, with its first bottle of Barbaresco sold a century ago, in 1909. The estate’s red clay is just right for Barbera grapes, said Elia, with the white clay adding a distinctive note to the Nebbiolo.
Most of the wines will be under $30 retail.
The prime La Massa offering, a 2007, is a blend of Sangiovese (70 percent), Merlot (20) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10), having spent 13 months in French oak. Still on the youthful side, and able to spend another decade in a cellar, it’s dark and deep and rich with plummy overtones and displays a long finish on the palate.
A 2004 Sori Paitin Barbaresco was delicious, very spicy on the tongue with ripe, sweet tannins and black cherry and red berries on the palate. Beautifully balanced, the wine can age 20-25 years without a problem and will be perfect with veal or lamb, or with cheese from the Piedmont region.
Almost as good and about half the price is a 2006 Langhe, blending 30 percent each of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignn with 10 percent Petit Verdot. Dark red almost to the point of blackness, it shows off complex fruit with a touch of vanilla. Delicious.
Barbera d’Alba from ‘06 was fresh and fruity, with a big body and a black cherry note rather strong, and a Nebbiolo d’Alba Ca-Veja, also from ‘06 was lighter and fresher, a perfect accompaniment to pasta.
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CALIFORNIA WINNERS:
Zinfandel is always a favorite at our house, and we’ve tasted a trio of excellent 2006 wines from California producers recently. In no particular order, we noted a Truchard from Carneros ($25) that displayed considereable freshness and brightness; it’s young, but has a future. Rosenblum, one of California’s largest Zin producers, has a winner from the Maggie’s Reserve of Sonoma County ($45), is a huge wine with blackberry and cherry overtones. Both are perfect with steak. The always dependable Dry Creek Vineyard of Sonoma County brings one from its Somers Vineyard ($34), with berry in the aroma and rich plum in the flavor. All are tasty now, and will improve for 3-5 years in the cellar
-Joe