There is a deeply authentic aura to the Bleeding Deacon, beginning with a name that is almost Cromwellian in its ferocity. It’s reminiscent of an old south St. Louis bar, brought into the 21st century by the chalkboard list of many beers that didn’t exist in that bygone day and many dishes whose names or ingredients would have brought a fright to the bar kitchens of yore. Something else stood out, too: the fact that no one but us seemed on the upside of 40, including Vince Schoemehl, whose picture from a very early political campaign hangs just inside the door. Properly dark (and, alas, smoky), there’s a well-connected jukebox, but the main entertainment seemed to be conversation at the bar or in the numerous large booths around the room. When crowded, it’s probably noisy, but on our visit, we didn’t find a problem carrying on a conversation with each other or with a pal who came to visit, then returned to the more vital duty of helping hold up the bar. Years ago – perhaps a century now – St. Louis Germans would describe something’s location as being “down by the Gravois,” and the phrase fits here like a well-made shoe. Just a few doors west of Chippewa’s intersection with Gravois, it’s an unassuming building, although there’s a patio in the back. The interior, too, is modest in its furnishing, and at first look, the menu might, too. The menu calls it a “savory meatloaf supper”, and for us, meatloaf can make or break a home-style kitchen. This one was remarkable, tender, juicy, full of meaty flavor, nicely spiced, the bourbon-laced ketchup on top adding a nice note. A few well-drained and crunchy onion rings provided a tasty decoration. We decided on the brussels sprout slaw instead of the green beans that normally ride shotgun for the smoked mashed potatoes. The minced slaw, quite mustardy, would have been right at home on a chopped barbecue sandwich. The mashers were indeed smoky, slightly lumpy, and seasoned well, including more bits of green onion, rather close to irresistible.
We kicked off with that hummus and some sweet potato salsa that particularly intrigued Joe, who has a soft spot for sweet potatoes in any disguise. The hummus, which arrived in the center of a raft of finger-sized slices of warm pita arranged like so many flower petals, was tangy, slightly spicy, quite satisfying. The very chunky salsa held black beans, corn, and chopped green onions, topped with shreds of flash-fried collards. It was cold, tart, interesting in the mouth, not a salsa the way most of St. Louis thinks of the dish. A larger portion could serve happily as a side dish to, perhaps, a piece of grilled chicken or pork loin. But we liked it a lot. Yes, tortilla chips were fresh, not soggy.
And then there was the hot dog. A foot-long dog is slashed so that it curls into a circle as it cooks, then arranged onto a cracked wheat bun that was sturdy enough to withstand the onslaught of weight and moisture it held. The onions were grilled to brown crispness, absolutely succulent, and the housemade barbecue sauce filled in any barren spots in the gustatory spectrum. All in all, it was an excellent dog, a remarkable dog, one that Joe said was the best he’s had in a long, long time, and easily could have won best of breed, if not best of show, at Westminster, or maybe at Nathan’s. French fries arrived hot, a mass-produced cut, we suspect, but with a dusting of fine salt and some spicy heat that was a creation of the Deacon’s kitchen.
Two desserts on the menu plus a daily special; we thought seriously about the acorn squash-apple pie, which apparently combines the best of pumpkin and apple fillings, but tried pineapple upside down cake. The cake was moist, and the topping showed a little crisp caramelizing along with the mandatory pineapple ring, but it suffered from microwaving, showing a lukewarm exterior and chilly heart. Easy-going service, paced just right for a quiet night at a spot like this. A very comfortable tavern. The Bleeding Deacon 4123 Chippewa Ave. 314-772-1813
Lunch & Dinner daily Credit cards: Yes Wheelchair access: No Smoking: Yes Entrees: $9-$10
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We’ve eaten at this place before and found it, well, I’ll be kind, quite lacking in everything one looks for in a dining experience.
The atmosphere is appalling. Dark,dingy, basic barroom type.(I’m not talking upscale barroom either)..
The food was equally unappealing and grossly overrated based on the reviews I’ve read.
I mean, that’s why we went there, to try the food, based on a review!!
Let’s jut say, someone has a skewered sense of humor.
4 of us went this evening for dinner and loved it. Nice crowd, wonderful food. Well worth the drive from the western burbs