Built in 1891, the Harbor View Hotel sits, of course, above Edgartown's harbor. From the broad covered porch, tall, cool drink in hand, a visitor can see yachts arriving, the blinking of the lighthouse, and a surprisingly short distance across the water, the woods of Chappaquiddick Island. On a summer evening just before dusk, many were taking advantage of the chairs and the view, conversations bubbled, and as we climbed the steps, we faced a golden Lab enjoying the view, a ball in his mouth. Suddenly a much smaller dog raced up, grabbed the ball from the Lab and zipped away. The Lab scarcely batted an eye, and almost seemed to shrug. That's how calm things are at the Harbor View.
The hotel's Water Street restaurant, one of Martha's Vineyard's finest places to dine, boasts large windows on both sides of its corner location. It's calm, lovely and roomy, with tables well-spaced and chairs properly comfortable. The noise level is just right, another requisite for a good vacation meal. One of the marks of both sides of our family is conversation as a recreational activity, and that's what we had in mind for this dinner, a long, relaxed conversation.
And that's exactly what we got, good conversation and story-telling, and a glorious meal with some of the best service we've ever had, from a chap who hit the sweet spot between too familiar and too formal and clearly kept a seagull-sharp eye on the pacing.
The menu is tilted toward small plates, with the note that certain items are also available as larger servings. Mostly we stayed with the small bites, with a single excursion into a main. Seared sea scallops sat on small chanterelles, a little fresh corn, and a drizzle of a vinaigrette that had some foie gras pureed into it, the vinaigrette a charming contrast to the sweet flesh of the scallops. A tumble of vegetables, summer squash, lime-green cauliflower, carrot, and a few rings of red onion, all marinated in a different vinaigrette just long enough to give savor but not turn them to rocks or mush, surrounded a dollop of shallot-laced crème fraiche. A startlingly good combination.
Roasted marrow drew us immediately. Two good-sized bone pieces came with crisp bread, some pieces of Italian parsley, a traditional accompaniment, and crystals of smoked sea salt. The marrow, scooped out and spread on the bread, was just as it should be, unctuously rich. And a square of pork belly, very meaty and carefully browned, was sauced with its pan juices and served with some sweet corn. Both simple, both dazzling.
Delicious lamb chops,grilled to the perfect moment of medium-rare, arrived with a tangle of grilled onions and a lush wine sauce. And some roasted peaches, which we thought would be dessert-ish, went toward the savory, with thick slices of fruit wrapped in speck bacon and sauced with saba, a cooked grape juice.
The dining room has a long, elegant and expensive wine list, and on a festive evening, we semi-splurged with a bottle of 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon from Rombauer, California-based descendants of St. Louisan Erma Rombauer, the cookbook author. Some might call the wine a tad heavy for lamb chops, but we found it just right.
Dessert was a circle of a beautifully delicate lemon pudding cake, and strawberry shortcake made with a thin but tender biscuit, fine, sweet berries, and a small pillow of whipped cream. Yes, coffee, and a plate of mignardises, small cookies and chocolates, to finish off the evening.
Lovely evening. Lovely food and service and setting.
Harbor View Hotel
131 N. Water Street, Edgartown MA
508-627-7000
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Good
Smoking: No
Entrees: $25-$34
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Good
Smoking: No
Entrees: $25-$34