Lobster in the rough—or as it's pronounced in situ lobsta—is an old New England habit. The phrase might evoke some cobbled-together approach to the crustacean, but actually it refers to eating outdoors. Lobster shacks, which frequently aren't (quite) shacks, can be found along the Atlantic Coast from Connecticut all the way up into Maine. Maybe it's the result of those legendary New England winters, but they've remained a staple of local dining for decades. Shore dinners, shellfish with the traditional sides, are the focus, with lobster rolls and chowder–or chowda–for lighter appetites.
And a lighter, lunchtime appetite was what we were carrying when we visited Abbott's Lobster in the Rough, one of the best-known of Connecticut's crop. Check their website for driving directions; unlike Maine, where it's easy to get to the shore, this part of New England is so built up, it's much trickier to find such destinations. But they are indeed right on the water, with picnic tables both open and covered, a dock and a view. The standard drill is to order at the window, take your drinks, find a table and wait to be called, sometimes by name, usually by number.
Big kudos to the clam chowder. For those who think it comes only in red (Manhattan) or white (New England) styles, it would be a surprise to see Abbott's, which is neither. Sometimes referred to as Rhode Island style, it's clear, and studded with potatoes and clams, the broth deeply flavorful, with the essence of ocean in every sip. Oyster crackers come alongside, but save them to feed the fish from the dock. (See Abbott's sign.) Some lovely, juicy clams on the half-shell were succulent.
On the other hand, the lobster roll was a disappointment. Served on a hamburger bun, it did have a carefully measured-out mound of lobster meat, but it lacked butter or mayonnaise, the key to two common variations. We ditched the top half of the roll and used a fork; it wasn't until we got toward the actual bottom that we found the savory lobster juices had migrated there, soaking the bun to the point of disintegration had we tried to pick it up. A crab roll, done in the same style, had far more flavor.
Pleasant setting, great chowder, but not so much on the rolls. Abbott's only serves steamed seafood. For those who go for the fried, a sibling restaurant is just down the road. It's called Costello's.
Abbott's Lobster in the Rough
117 Pearl St., Noank CT
860-536-7719
Lunch & Dinner but only in the warmer months (call first)
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Fair
Smoking: No
Entrees and sandwiches: $6-”market price”