Talk about restaurants that have settled into a happy middle age: I Fratellini fills the bill perfectly. Despite a kitchen that has provided exceptional meals for close to a decade, it’s pretty much a spot known mostly by word of mouth, without a huge amount of media attention but with plenty of regular customers. And it looks right, with a real feeling of a small northern Italian restaurant, cozy and darkish, and just a bit crowded–and noisy–when full.
The menu is mostly Italian, with some forays into multinational contemporary. Our eggplant appetizer was a rolatini, grilled slices rolled around seasoned ricotta and placed in a puddle of excellent, slightly chunky tomato sauce. The eggplant-tomato combination was particularly succulent, the flavors fitting together just right. A nightly special of an arugula salad featuring roasted fresh figs and prosciutto was equally delicious, with chef Ny Vongsaly quite properly using the lightest possible hand with the dressing, with minimal acidity so as not to override the rich succulence of the figs.
We admit we’re not big on zucchini, but the grilled vegetable on the appetizer menu at I Fratellini is the exception that proves the rule. Since we’ve eaten it before, however, we passed in favor of a glorious taste treat, grilled Belgian endive stuffed with creamy fresh mozzarella cheese and wrapped with prosciutto. The slight bitterness of the endive, the saltiness of the prosciutto, and the smoke from the grilling process brought everything together in a triumph for Vongsaly. In a real restaurant-world upset, he has been the chef since Zoe Houk Robinson opened the Clayton establishment. He also worked with her at the late Cafe Zoe in the Central West End, and is in charge at Bobo, the noodle shop at Skinker Boulevard and the Forest Park Expressway.
An order of the combination bruschetta brought six slices of bread, two each topped with roasted cherry tomatoes and fresh mint, white beans marinated in a vinaigrette (very Tuscan, the bean combination), and what we thought the server described as a chicken pate. Perhaps we missed part of what she said–it was pretty noisy on a Saturday night–or perhaps a word was omitted, but it was chicken liver pate, a very traditional topping to the bruschetta family of appetizers in Italy, and it was yummy, especially with the shards of parmesan resting on top. A generous serving, as the server had said when we ordered it. Good for her for doing so, and good for the appetites of our dining party.
The lasagna with Italian sausage is, we understand, a frequent dinner special. (Lasagna is always on the lunch menu.) More of that tomato sauce surrounded a good-sized serving, cheesy, a light sprinkle of fennel, the pasta seemingly house-made. More pasta, this time a thick linguine, wore an ocean broth seasoned with saffron and a brief hit of red pepper, the whole topped with large shrimp, sea scallops, a little squid, and some mussels and clams still in their shells. The pasta arrived quite al dente, but seemed happier after it sat in the steaming broth a little, soaking up more moisture and flavor. None of the seafood was overcooked, and all waltzed together in good harmony.
Slices of duck breast, cooked rare at our request, were almost beefy in their texture, pink and juicy. They rode with mashed parsnips and some sauteed pear slices, a pairing seen more in East Coast restaurants as the once-hangdog vegetable seems to be updating its image. The match is a good one, the light sweetness of parsnip joining the honey-tart notes from a pear that’s not overcooked. Otherwise, we think, the textures would be too similar.
We don’t see whole fish on local tables very often. That’s a shame; whole fish, while they require a little knife-and-fork play, and a watch for bones, are more succulent, less apt to dry out, and deliver more flavor. Fratellini offers branzino, sometimes known as European sea bass. Discussing European vs. American fish names is far too complicated, but this is a lovely fish, with mild white flesh that’s absolutely irresistible. The branzino is grilled, and arrives with a square of potato gratin and some asparagus, the whole accented with capers, something that acts the same way lemon does with fish. The crisp, dark brown skin made us worry that the fish had been overcooked, but not at all; it was perfect.
Many of the desserts, including a gloriously rich and deeply fudgy chocolate layer cake, come from Sugaree, a fine local supplier. We do not scorn such a move; in effect, it’s hiring a part-time pastry chef, a reasonable solution to a real challenge. The cake was a winner, as was a housemade lemon panna cotta. Unlike many panna cottas, this one was dense rather than Jello-y, made to pair up perfectly with its raspberry sauce. The secret may have been cream cheese in the mixture, but whatever it was, it worked perfectly.
Good service, as we’ve always had here, and a pleasing, middle-of-the-road wine list that offers a large number of Italian offerings that match well with the cuisine. An excellent stop for lunch or dinner.
I Fratellini
7624 Wydown Blvd., Clayton
314-727-7901
http://www.saucemagazine.com/ifratellini/
Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Poor
Smoking: No
Entrees: $18-$24
