More dining in the Grand Center area! And deeply casual at that, the sort of place that will thrill the cautious eater who hates to dress up. The food’s good enough that nearly everyone will be happy with either dinner or lunch. The Field House is clearly a sports bar; the number of televisions far surpasses any other place in the neighborhood, but the food goes beyond the expected.
No sports bar is ever quiet, of course, when there’s much activity, and in a building the age of those in this part of town, that goes double, with high ceilings and concrete floors. But there are some curved banquettes that are nicely comfortable, and tables both high and low from which to choose and to cheer. A roar from across the room may make a diner wonder the cause, with three or four games in simultaneous action. Sidewalk seating, too, in front of large doors that move so that outside diners can get a peek at the sports action. At this time of year, leaning in may even bring a chilling shot of coolness from of the air conditioning that roars in welcome.
What, certainly, is a sports bar without chicken wings? Three options, Buffalo, barbecue or, to use the menu’s term, “way hot,” an immediate and irresistible challenge. The sauce appears to be pumped up with minced pickled jalapenos and their juices, creating a nubbly red sauce that’s hotter than the average wing found in St. Louis. Its heat is increased by the acidity of the juices. And not only were they hot-spicy, they arrived very freshly cooked so the temperature was that way, too.
The menu is vegetarian-friendly in an unobtrusive manner: an excellent example is the stuffed mushrooms, large caps of white mushrooms stuffed with a garlicky herbed cheese and quickly roasted until the mushrooms just start to give up their juices. Polenta fries, strips of firmed-up polenta quickly deep-fried to a little crispness, are anointed with a little marinara sauce and a dollop of a tart tomato-caper relish.
A six-ounce rib eye sandwich gave tender meat, thin enough that the request for medium-rare brought only a slightly pink interior, but with almost no fat and just a wee bit of gristle. Being rib eye, the flavor was good. Slices of red onion, decent tomato and a little lettuce were the trimmings; a hoagie roll provided proper support. Housemade potato chips were pretty much perfect, crisp and dry, so tidy they almost resembled commercial ones.
An order of fish and chips brought three quite satisfactory boneless cod fillets lightly breaded and not overcooked. The fries don’t thrill, though, despite the presence of tangy tartar sauce in which to dip them. Slaw, on the other hand, was intriguing, with some red cabbage leaving the mixture a dusky pink, and a tang that made us believe that some dill pickles and their juice had been part of the mixture.
Alas, despite the welcoming staff, the Field House only serves food until 10 p.m. Too bad; it’d be a great spot for a sandwich and beer after a show.
510 Theresa Ave.
314-289-0311
Lunch & Dinner daily
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Good
Smoking: No
Entrees: $7-$17
