I may have found one of St. Louis’ greatest spots for playing hookey.
I went to Sump Coffee the other morning. It was quiet. Big front windows in the old building at Jefferson and Winnebago allow plenty of light if that’s what you’re in need of. The decor is minimalist, bare brick walls, interesting tables made of old soda crates, a gently curved bar – except for a matched red velvet chairs in full Victorian flower.
This is Serious Coffee. Just coffee. No scones, no soy–milk half-decaf pumpkin vanilla thingies with fake whipped cream on top. Not even any dry toast. Variations on espresso depending on how much milk goes into it; I had a cortado, the very speaking of the word takes me back to a counter in Barcelona. Cortados have two ounces of milk and a double shot. (And is this the only place in town with a flat white, so beloved of Aussie coffee fiends?)
I settled in with part of the New York Times, which sat on a shelf. The few other customers mostly utilized the wi-fi, although I heard a conversation regarding the differences in the biochemistry and immunology departments and the vagaries of stem cells. (Please note: This is not within walking distance of either med school.) The coffee arrived quietly but with a distinctly proud flourish.
And it was grand, smooth and strong and only slightly acidic, some chocolate and tobacco notes in it, too good to knock back standing up the way I did in Barcelona.
Just be aware, this is high-octane stuff. Once upon a time, in another life, I worked up the street. If Sump had been there then, I would have flown through a shift. But this was a sweet, short escape.
Sump Coffee
3700 S. Jefferson Ave.
Closed Monday

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comet coffee does flat whites